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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #1  
Old 06-11-2008
BusBoyJj BusBoyJj is offline
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Default Racor Question

I changed my fuel filters last week on the 6v92. My fuel pressure guage still reads in the yellow under full acceleration. Is that normal? I looked through all the books but can't find any info. Before I changed the filters it would register in the red and had low power. Are there more than 2 fuel filters? Also, my air filter looks not so great but not really terrible I shook it out and used the air compressor to clean it. Is it worth the $110 for a new one ? Have you notice improvement in fuel economy or power with a fresh filter??? Thanks!
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1976 FC-31 Sold
1984 PT-36 Sold
1997 LX
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  #2  
Old 06-12-2008
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giderich giderich is offline
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Probably should also check your lift pump for proper operation.
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1999 43 LXI Single Slide Body # F124510
2005 JEEP Liberty Limited CRD (diesel Toad)
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  #3  
Old 06-12-2008
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sfedeli sfedeli is offline
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Hi Jeff,

The Racor 900 FG that the PT's were built with is too small. It is only rated for around 275HP. You really should upgrade to a larger unit- the 1000FG has a much higher flow rate. I was plagued with the same problem that you described until I replaced the smaller Racor with a larger, taller unit. Racor uses a fuel flow rate factor of .36 multiplied by HP to get the flow rate. In your case, the DD 6V92's are usually rated around 330HP. 330 x .36 = 118.8 GPH (minimum). The 900FG Racor is only rated for 90 GPH. To get by in the meantime, you could use a 30 micron filter. We do not have a fuel pump that pressurizes the system- only a small, "lifting" pump that is above the water pump on the engine. The only other filter is the "spin-on" filter on the back (or front) of the engine that you see when you open the lift-gate.

I actually increased my MPG with the larger fuel filter. The engine runs more efficiently with an ample supply of fuel. The conical air cleaner should be replaced every 15,000 miles or annually- whichever comes first. I definitely recommend getting a new one if you do not know how old the existing one is. Be sure to wipe (not blow) all debris out of the tube that holds the filter. Take special care not to allow ANY debris into the turbo assembly at the base of the air cleaner. Using compressed air on the filter is fine, so long as you do not contaminate the innner side of the pleated paper element with any debris. Try http://www.filter1.com/order.htm - I've purchased fuel and air cleaners from them with good results and at great prices. They will just need the part ## off the old filter for a cross-reference.
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2008
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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blowing the filters out is a big No-No in my book,its possible to rip the paper when blowing,then dirt gets in through the rips.
shake em,bang em on the floor,but don't blow them!

Randy
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2000 LXI 43
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  #5  
Old 06-13-2008
BusBoyJj BusBoyJj is offline
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Default new filter

Bought my new air filter today! Thanks for the tips. Still working on the no start issue...spent 3 hours at a shop yesterday. Replaced both starting solenoids and some wires to the starter and still wont start....hmmmmm
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1976 FC-31 Sold
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1997 LX
Redding, California
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  #6  
Old 06-13-2008
oldtimer85 oldtimer85 is offline
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In 50 years of operating trucks,heavy equipment,farm equipment,etc. one thing I have learned clean air,oil and fuel is the life of engines. Paper air fiters deteriate with age just like a newspaper. I never let anyone blow them out with air pressure as Randy said. I use a insured filter cleaning company and replace filters after 3 cleanings or every year. Out 75 units I have not repaired a engine because of air,oil or dirty fuel in over 20 years. I hope this info. helps. Terry Gigot
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  #7  
Old 06-13-2008
oldtimer85 oldtimer85 is offline
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Sorry I forgot this info. in my first reply. You need full fuel pressure to get enough return fuel from the injectors to keep them cool or they will score because of heat and lack of lubrication. Terry GIgot
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  #8  
Old 06-13-2008
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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Jeff,tell us again just what you have done to ty to get it to start with the key.
Randy
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  #9  
Old 06-15-2008
BusBoyJj BusBoyJj is offline
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Default RE: starting problem

Hi Randy,
Here is the list that has been done so far on the no start from key issue.
1. Tested ignition key front and rear ....working ok has signal to starter solenoid.
2. Had the A/t switch tested ....is working fine
3. Had all starting batterys tested....all checked out ok with 6.5 volts.
4. Cleaned all connections including ground straps to starter.
5. Had the battery shut off switch tested and cleaned
6. Purchased 2 new starting solenoids.....they are in a very hard to get to location above the frame rail but below the starter....and still no luck.
7. Had the rear start 3 way toggle switch replaced.
Had a rear start push button directly wired to the starter so I don't have to jump it till we can find the problem.
I have been to 2 mechanics and spent quite a bit of $$$ but everyone seems to be stumped and mostly ME!! The last mechanic I went to suggested it might be the wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the starter?? SOOOO
that's about it so far...
THANKS for your help guys!!
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1976 FC-31 Sold
1984 PT-36 Sold
1997 LX
Redding, California
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  #10  
Old 06-16-2008
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Randy Dupree Randy Dupree is offline
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but,you could jump it across the terminals on the starter and it would start,right?
and,you wired in a push button starter switch and it works,right?
has anyone used a test light at the starter to see if power is getting to the right terminal when you try to start with the key switch?
or even better,a volt meter?
the only thing you left out is the transmission neutral safety switch,has it been checked?
it screws in the side of the tranny.
Randy
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