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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #21  
Old 01-08-2012
fxdwg fxdwg is offline
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Kurt,

You can rule out the puter and most of the other stuff. Since you're not getting any dash action with the switch, it's either the switch (even though it's testing ok) or a relay that feeds the dash and engine. Broken wire maybe? It's something very basic, I'm betting. Just have to find it.
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  #22  
Old 01-08-2012
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Kurt,, don't know if you read it or not, but I lost all power for a few minute the other day, would not start. I am not sure where all the connections and relays are, but still looking to find the source of my problem.
But the relay for the AT is in the blower compartment, under the driver. You posted a picture of it at one time.
http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...7&postcount=21

And I think some one else posted a partial diagram of the area.
Anyway, just below the A/T relay, are two large, what appears to me to be breakers with a center that I suspect are either manually or automatic reset. Check across these breakers and see if either is broke.
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  #23  
Old 01-08-2012
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Peter look here

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...PT-42%20Files/

Scan # 502

There are 2 types pdf and tiff files
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  #24  
Old 01-08-2012
davidmbrady
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Kurt,

Did you check the ground strap that goes from the engine to the frame? Have you ever pulled that connection apart? If not, then it's time to do so. Scrub the frame till you see nice shiny metal, apply a dab of never seize and bolt it back together. There's very little between your ignition key and your starter and ECM. You can have good voltage at the interior and exterior ignition switches but if there's no path to ground, neither the starter nor the ECM will see it.
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  #25  
Old 01-08-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bumpersbird View Post
No low air buzzer. No buzzers for any systems.
Kurt,

Here is a guide to the electrical panel accessed from the front below the window. It may give you some possible hints to identify the problem.

There is also an electrical panel above the windshield, accessed through the BACK of the cabinets -- look carefully, as there are latches/pins that allow the cabinet backs to be removed to reveal the panel. (I do not have a 'key' to the upper panel, though.)

Both of these panels have circuits that serve the dash area. A short or thrown breaker/burnt fuse may be involved, cutting power to a needed relay.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf LOAD_CENTER-FRT_95WB42.pdf (30.0 KB, 172 views)
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  #26  
Old 01-09-2012
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Hi Kurt,

You said earlier that relay K36 was good but since you don’t have any buzzers, etc. I would measure the voltage at the main terminal (the big wire in the middle) of the circuit block in the lower front component panel that has circuit breakers SK64 through SK72 in it to double check that K36 is picking up and working right with the key on.
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  #27  
Old 01-09-2012
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its always the grounds on old Wanderlodge

i would try and start it from the starter!!!!!!!

then trace back!
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  #28  
Old 01-09-2012
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As others have said, this is NOT a computer or starter problem.

Let's not confuse the issue with unnecessary diagnostics.

Kurt has stated that when turning the key, he gets NO dash indications, no buzzers, etc.

This is a purely ELECTRIC problem. When he is turning that key, a solenoid should be energizing, providing power to one of the 12v panels, which in turn distributes that power to the various functions, such as warning buzzers, turn signals, gauges, and the engine starting system.

So, there are only a few possibilities. Could be a bad wire between his ignition switch and the solenoid. Could be a bad solenoid. Could be a bad wire between the A/T switch's circuit and the ignition switch solenoid.

If it were me, I would locate the ignition switch solenoid first, and validate proper power and function at that point. That is the logical place to start, because the results of the solenoid's diagnostics will lead you in the proper direction as the next logical step.

Kurt, my coach's wiring will probably be different in some ways from yours, but if you need, I can help you trace things out and properly diagnose the problem.
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  #29  
Old 01-09-2012
davidmbrady
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Robert,

For chassis items such as the starter and the ECM there are no master or ignition solenoids involved. Power is always distributed to these items. The ignition switch is always connected to battery power. Turn on the ignition switch and a handful of low power control relays flick into action instructing the ECM that ignition is on, at this point the ECM flashes the Check Engine Light and Stop Engine Light christmas tree at the dash. Turn the key to start and the starter solenoid control is activated. These items should work even if K36 and K37 are faulty. The problem is, Kurt can't start the engine. On top of this there are a handful of other items that don't work, all of which could be tied to a bad ground distribution. Disclaimer, and it's a big one, I'm basing a bunch of this on my LXi circuit diagrams! Once Kurt cleans the chassis ground, at least we'll be able to rule that out.

I agree Woody, I'd start from the starter and work backwards.
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  #30  
Old 01-09-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmbrady View Post
Robert,

For chassis items such as the starter and the ECM there are no master or ignition solenoids involved. Power is always distributed to these items. The ignition switch is always connected to battery power. Turn on the ignition switch and a handful of low power control relays flick into action instructing the ECM that ignition is on, at this point the ECM flashes the Check Engine Light and Stop Engine Light christmas tree at the dash. Turn the key to start and the starter solenoid control is activated. These items should work even if K36 and K37 are faulty. The problem is, Kurt can't start the engine. On top of this there are a handful of other items that don't work, all of which could be tied to a bad ground distribution. Disclaimer, and it's a big one, I'm basing a bunch of this on my LXi circuit diagrams! Once Kurt cleans the chassis ground, at least we'll be able to rule that out.

I agree Woody, I'd start from the starter and work backwards.
David,how does the A/T switch come into play?
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