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Old 06-05-2012
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Default Racor & Racor Gauge

Hey, y'all.

Changed my Racor and secondary fuel filter today. The gauge on the upper dash was well into the red. From the looks of the fuel drained out of the racor, I could see no signs of water, algae or anything else nasty looking. In addition, the filter itself looked pretty clean.

I've rolled my bird about 4,500 miles in the last three months and used BioborJF with each fillup. Three months on the filters and 4500 miles seems a little soon to me to change 'em.

Possibly the gauge is wrong?

What do y'all think?

I
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Old 06-05-2012
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Tommy when you shut off the engine does the needle go back up into the green and then upon startup and under a load the needle starts down again? If the Racor filter is clean and not black (algae) or rust from the tank you have aplugged hose. Blow it back into the fuel tank and clear it.
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Old 06-05-2012
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Tom:

Thanks for your response. Ill have to check to make sure, but best I recall, When I change/changed the fuel filters the needle goes back down to almost the bottom and stays there. As I run the engine it will gradually go up (which I suppose it is designed to do). When I shut the engine down the needle stays there. As it travels up to the yellow and then into the red, it likewise stays there until I change the filter again.

It just seems to me 4,500 miles to well into the red is a little short. I have been buying a lot of fuel lately and coming back from Mt. Airy, NC I let my fuel get down to about 1/4 and I would get an intermittant "water in fuel" signal.

No doubt my sump probably need draining - most likely 20 years worth of crud in it.
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Old 06-05-2012
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On mine the gauge is a vacuum gauge that measures how much "suck" the injection pump has. My needle stays and I think if it dropped to zero it would indicate an air leak into the fuel line.

When you changed the filter, you vented the fuel system to atmosphere and the gauge should have gone to zero.
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Old 06-05-2012
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you can also remove the line at the gauge
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Old 06-05-2012
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In a perfect world, the gauge should drop to "0" (Zero) when you shut off the engine and the vacuum pressure is able to equalize between the filter assembly and the fuel tank. If your gauge is reading a vacuum with the engine off, it would be very difficult to pull off the t-handle and cap off the Racor without a "pop" like you get from breaking the seal on a jar of applesauce. I'd guess that your vacuum line from the rear of the coach to the gauge may be clogged or the gauges' spring mechanism is stretched and cannot return the dial to "zero" inches Hg. The 1/8" copper line attached to the dash gauge can be blown out with some compressed air and a little shot of PB or WD40. Just make sure that you also disconnect it at the "tee" on the output side of the Racor assembly so the juices can be ejected on the ground instead of the filter line to the engine!
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Old 06-05-2012
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Thanks for all y'all's posts - I'm beginning to think my racor is behaving normally, except for the "nagging question" : is 4,500 miles too short for a racor change?
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Old 06-05-2012
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If you disconnect the gauge line at the filter, add a valve so you can shut it off if the line starts to suck air. You can also use this to check if the line leaks by closing the valve while the engine is running, and seeing if the gauge reading stays the same after the engine is shut off.
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Old 06-05-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrueckwald View Post
If you disconnect the gauge line at the filter, add a valve so you can shut it off if the line starts to suck air. You can also use this to check if the line leaks by closing the valve while the engine is running, and seeing if the gauge reading stays the same after the engine is shut off.
Good idea, I need to add to my list.
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Old 06-05-2012
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Thanks, Ron - that seems to be an excellent idea, future testing as well.
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