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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #1  
Old 10-16-2009
yesmar's Avatar
yesmar yesmar is offline
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Wink Getting to the engine from the bedroom

I have a 2000 LXI with a bed that positioned front to back. I need to get to the top of the Series 60 Detroit Diesel. According to Detroit Diesel, I need to have my valves adjusted at 65,000 miles. Currently I have 85,000 miles. I attempted to get them adjusted last year, but Detriot would not take the floor in the bed room out and I really did not want them to at $100 per hour.

I have removed the safe and the carpet. I see what I believe is the access panel that has 10 to 15 wood screws securing it. I started to take the screws out and see what was underneath, but then a little voice said, "ask before you screw things up".

I noticed that the top of the engine touches the insultation in the top of the engine compartment. I also noticed that this insulation has screws in it. What can I expect when I take the floor board under the bed up? Do I have to remove the insulation in the engine compartment first or does this insulation come up with the bedroom floor?

I have been told not to worry about adjusting the valves until it gets 150,000 miles on it. Depending on the difficulty level in accessing the top of engine, I have considered this option. What are your thoughts and advise.

I have some stainless steel panels on my compartment doors coming loose. So I took one off to see. What is the best way(or products to use) to get the double sided tape off and some type of glue compound they used. The glue is grey and appeared to have been applied with a tool used to apply silicon in a tube.

Non-mechanical Blue Bird owner attempting maintance.

Thanks
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1994 Wanderlodge (sold)
2000 LXI (sold)
1993 Wanderlodge(Sold)
2004 M380
Blountstown, Florida
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  #2  
Old 10-16-2009
fxdwg fxdwg is offline
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Richard,

I'll bet the bay insulation is perforated (or a separate piece) so it will come out with the bedroom floor. Just keep removing screws!

While you may not really need the valve adjustment, doing it now will keep them from getting to far out down the road. I need to do the same.

As far as the glue, WD40 and elbow grease will probably do what you need. You should be able to buy something similar to reattach the panels with. I've got a similar problem with a panel on my Explorer.
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  #3  
Old 10-16-2009
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Somervillebus Somervillebus is offline
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Hey Richard,

While opinions may vary on the subject of valve lash adjustment, I was told by another Detroit mech in Nashville that as long as you don't see a considerable drop in fuel mileage you were OK. Keep in mind we're talking about the S-60 which in most cases gets between 7-7.5 mpg on average. I'm not sure about other Detroit engines.

As far as valve cover access, I think I posted some pictures a while back showing the location of the steel plate. Maybe John can help find where I posted them.

I would like hear the opinions of others regarding the subject. My coach has 147000 no adjustments made, still @ 7.5 - sometimes more depending on driver habits, and terrain. If it were a big truck pulling what they pull, I would have already had them adjusted I'm sure.
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Kingston Springs, Tn.
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  #4  
Old 10-16-2009
cmillsap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yesmar View Post
I have a 2000 LXI with a bed that positioned front to back. I need to get to the top of the Series 60 Detroit Diesel. According to Detroit Diesel, I need to have my valves adjusted at 65,000 miles. Currently I have 85,000 miles. I attempted to get them adjusted last year, but Detriot would not take the floor in the bed room out and I really did not want them to at $100 per hour.

I have removed the safe and the carpet. I see what I believe is the access panel that has 10 to 15 wood screws securing it. I started to take the screws out and see what was underneath, but then a little voice said, "ask before you screw things up".

I noticed that the top of the engine touches the insultation in the top of the engine compartment. I also noticed that this insulation has screws in it. What can I expect when I take the floor board under the bed up? Do I have to remove the insulation in the engine compartment first or does this insulation come up with the bedroom floor?

I have been told not to worry about adjusting the valves until it gets 150,000 miles on it. Depending on the difficulty level in accessing the top of engine, I have considered this option. What are your thoughts and advise.

I have some stainless steel panels on my compartment doors coming loose. So I took one off to see. What is the best way(or products to use) to get the double sided tape off and some type of glue compound they used. The glue is grey and appeared to have been applied with a tool used to apply silicon in a tube.

Non-mechanical Blue Bird owner attempting maintance.

Thanks
Richard,

Remove the plywood, under the plywood is another piece of insulation. Remove that. Under that is a grey steel plate with 2 screws on the front edge. (Yours may have more?) Cut the insulation around the perimeter of the steel plate as it is attached to the steel plate with 4 screws and large washers. If the plate is sticky and hard to remove from under the bed, pry the plate up from underneath on the front edge. finish removing from under the bed and now you have access to the engine.

Detroit website says adjust valve lash @50m unless I misread it. I don't believe I would go 100m+ without checking the valve lash. My coach has 46m on and I think the valve click sounds a little too loud for my comfort zone. $500 for a valve lash adjustment is a whole lot cheaper than replacing that S60.
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  #5  
Old 10-16-2009
cmillsap
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[quote=Somervillebus;32805]Hey Richard,

Keep in mind we're talking about the S-60 which in most cases gets between 7-7.5 mpg on average. I'm not sure about other Detroit engines.

Slim,

I'll bet you get better mileage that most. I get 6.25 avg. My wife gets about a half mile better mileage when she drives.

Chuck
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  #6  
Old 10-16-2009
Paul Paul is offline
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Although I just had my valves adjusted for the first time at 105,000, even the mechanic that did the work suggested I not do it. He was a long time DD tech and he says the S60 doesn't need it done unless something changes. I tend to somewhat follow the manual.
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  #7  
Old 10-16-2009
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Somervillebus Somervillebus is offline
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[QUOTE=cmillsap;32807]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Somervillebus View Post
Hey Richard,

Keep in mind we're talking about the S-60 which in most cases gets between 7-7.5 mpg on average. I'm not sure about other Detroit engines.

Slim,

I'll bet you get better mileage that most. I get 6.25 avg. My wife gets about a half mile better mileage when she drives.

Chuck
Hey Chuck,

Both my Pro-Driver, and Silver Leaf confirm my mileage. However, unlike my cars, and trucks I drive this a little more conservatively. Rule of thumb, the faster you go ... the less mileage you get. Factor in - RPM's = MPG's agreed? unless of course you have other issues. Change habits and notice a change in mpg. I can almost guarantee improvements. Series 60s is one of the most fuel efficient engine out there right now.

BTW: Paul, glad your back on the road, thanks for the input on Prevost of Nashville. I'll be checking from now on. Hope its all working well.
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Former owner 99 LXi
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  #8  
Old 10-17-2009
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yesmar yesmar is offline
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Wink Thanks

Made a 6,000 mile trip this summer to Newfoundland and averaged 6.0 mpg for the trip and I drove between 60 and 65. I hit 90+ degree weather here in Florida and my transmission temp went to 215 (I had been seeing 195 all summer), so I turned on the fan over ride and none of my temps went down, so I made a phone call to a friend and discussed the situation.

While in Titusville, another friend looked at the coach and decided I had a blown fuse. After 2 hours of looking, we found the fuse and it was blown, which made the fan run all the time. I just finished an 1800 mile trip with him, (SC,AL,TN) and I averaged 6.9 mpg driving at 58 mph.

He drives at 58 mph, because his trans shifts into 6th gear at 57 mph. He has a cummins (2000 LX). My trans shifts into 6th gear at 53 mph. Is this normal or do I need my trans shift point changed?

Thanks for the information, you guys have helped me once again and hopefully saved me time and aggrivation.

See ya at RATS

Richard
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Vintage Birds

1994 Wanderlodge (sold)
2000 LXI (sold)
1993 Wanderlodge(Sold)
2004 M380
Blountstown, Florida
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  #9  
Old 10-20-2009
cmillsap
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Posts: n/a
Default Valve lash / injector height adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Somervillebus View Post
Hey Richard,

While opinions may vary on the subject of valve lash adjustment, I was told by another Detroit mech in Nashville that as long as you don't see a considerable drop in fuel mileage you were OK. Keep in mind we're talking about the S-60 which in most cases gets between 7-7.5 mpg on average. I'm not sure about other Detroit engines.

As far as valve cover access, I think I posted some pictures a while back showing the location of the steel plate. Maybe John can help find where I posted them.

I would like hear the opinions of others regarding the subject. My coach has 147000 no adjustments made, still @ 7.5 - sometimes more depending on driver habits, and terrain. If it were a big truck pulling what they pull, I would have already had them adjusted I'm sure.
Hi Slim,

Below is a quote out of the Detroit Diesel S60 Manual.

Item 26 – Engine Tune-Up
There is no scheduled interval for
performing an engine tune-up.
However, the valve lash and injector
heights
must be measured and, if
necessary, adjusted at the initial
interval listed in Table 17.
Once the initial measurements/adjustments
have been made, any
adjustments beyond this point should
be made only as required to maintain
satisfactory engine performance.

Engine Application Measurement/Adjustment Period
Vehicle Engines 60,000 Miles (96,000 km) or
24 Months, whichever comes
first

Table 17 Initial Valve Lash and Injector Height Adjustment
All information
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  #10  
Old 10-20-2009
rrueckwald rrueckwald is offline
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Lots of variation. Wow. Here's what I've heard.

Valve Lash: Hill Truck Sales, a DD dealer in South Bend, told me DD has changed their recommendation and now suggest 100,000 miles the first time, and odometer 250,000 the second time. In a related conversation, I was asking a trucker friend of mine about the antifreeze issue on the S-60 where they switched from the green stuff upon having corrosion problems starting in about 1998. In that conversation we talked about a 1995 engine he ran for a million miles and did nothing to it except oil and filters. I just called him and verified that includes no adjustment to valve lash. He then qualified it by saying it was probably a good idea so we then wouldn't have to worry about it. Maybe we do worry too much. I think I will aim at 100,000 miles to do it.

Fuel Mileage: On the basis of only 5000 miles since I bought the coach, and taking out estimated genset and Aqua-Hot use, I come up with a disppointing 6.0 mpg overall. Perhaps it isn't too bad since that is overall, including local, idling, etc. Steady state interstate mpg would probably be right around 7 mpg if I had an instant readout. My fan is running properly. My foot does have some intermittent problems, though.
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