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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #11  
Old 10-20-2009
fxdwg fxdwg is offline
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The Detroit website is listing 60k valve adjustment for the first time currently.
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  #12  
Old 10-21-2009
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Valve Lash, DD told me not to worry about it, Of course they just put a new cam and roller bearings in at 130,000 miles. They said it should have been done along with the cam install. They also said I shouldn't have needed a new cam.

Now at 160,000 miles I'm wondering when it will need to be adjusted, if at all

Several months back I did a controlled run from my home to Birmingham Alabama. and back again about 140 miles each way, good road lots of hills. Your MPG are good in reference to what I got off the Silverleaf. Got her into the high 7.5 to 7.9 mpg plus range at 55 with the MODE engaged on the key pad. She goes into 6 th gear and more or less stays there until she's lugging so bad you have to shift for her.

The problem is I CAN'T DRIVE 55!!!!!!!!!!!!!

At 65 she's in the low 6's and at the happy spot 71 or 72 she's sucking it down like a drunk on Bourbon Street. 5.2 to 4.8 MPG. I do pull a 24" trailer @ 12000 lbs. so she will do better without it, but not much.

3.1 MPG difference over a 17MPH range is 0.182 / gallon per MPH This is just a little brain teaser. All readings made with the generator running. As you can see it's not a steady increase it uses considerably more fuel the faster you go over 65.

The up side is once you hit that 70 plus range 4.8 to 5 MPG is the norm up to as fast as you shouldn't be going.
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  #13  
Old 10-21-2009
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Just keep the smoke blowing!!! What's a couple hundred over the course of a year??? ****, you can't hardly buy a decent dinner for that anymore.
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don't waste your time with a usa-spec ipod adapter- poor products with poor support
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  #14  
Old 10-22-2009
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Very True

Besides my diesel F350 only gets 9.5 to 10 MPG with the trailer 12 without and I don't do Hotels, nasty.
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  #15  
Old 10-22-2009
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If I can slow down to about 50, I can get my 250 to 21- even with a fuel sucking piece of **** leer cap!
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  #16  
Old 10-24-2009
cmillsap
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Default Getting to the engine from under the bed

The hatch flooring is not the only portion that has to be removed to access the engine compartment. Once the plywood floor hatch and the insulation below it it removed you will see the steel hatch cover. However that steel hatch cover is a 'L' shaped piece that runs up the rear wall. The rear wall carpet must be removed plus the plywood piece and the insulation underneath that reveals the vertical portion of the steel plate. The steel plate is fastened with 6 screws. See pics below.

BTW, EGT Probe Location shown.
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  #17  
Old 10-25-2009
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Smile Thank You

Your pictures were worth a thousand words. Now I see exactly what I have to do.

Thank you a bunch

Richard
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  #18  
Old 10-25-2009
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Smile Does the insulation come out?

Did you have to cut the insulation in order to remove the steel plate or did it just come out with the plate?
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  #19  
Old 10-25-2009
cmillsap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yesmar View Post
Did you have to cut the insulation in order to remove the steel plate or did it just come out with the plate?
Richard,

You have to go underneath and cut the insulation along the outline of the steel plate. Use aluminum tape to reseal the edges of the insulation along where you cut it underneath and on the steel plate (back about an inch from the edge so it will re-seat properly. That way the steel plate can be removed in the future without having to re-cut the insulation.
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