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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #11  
Old 12-02-2014
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Back them off loose, brake clean thoroughly and tighten to 30 ft. lb. Those connections need to be CLEAN. Watch the engine oil level for rising, indicating a fuel leak under the valve cover.
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  #12  
Old 10-21-2016
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How many ft. lbs. should the fuel pump rear cover bolts be torqued to?
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  #13  
Old 10-21-2016
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8/10 ft. lb.
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  #14  
Old 10-22-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hohnstein View Post
8/10 ft. lb.
Thanks Mike
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  #15  
Old 01-17-2017
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I want to thank Bill Pape and the other contributors that shared their experiences with this repair. I am happy to report that I have just completed a 1,200 mile trip after replacing the throttle rod seal last week and there is no fuel in the valley!

Now here is the story of how to turn a small fuel leak into a larger fuel leak, and finally no fuel leak.

I ordered the parts in December and began the repair the first week of the year. I used an after market seal and unfortunately as it turns out did not fully seat it by maybe a 1/16" on one side.

Once I got everything back together, the #2 cylinder fuel line was leaking on the engine side. The piece that sits on top of the flare was missing (not sure if it was cracked before and was part of the fuel leak or not as it is directly across from the throttle rod). In any event, I began a search for a replacement - ended up buying from a local Used-Cat parts house that searches a database and coordinates delivery. It was found in Texas and UPS delivers next day in-state - $42. Wondering why I couldn't just bypass Cat and order directly and save some money; I did some additional research and found this website - machinerytrader.com

http://www.machinerytrader.com/list/...042&pst=starts

If you have the part number, you can search for the item giving multiple options with the state where they are located and contact information. In addition, I found a 3208 Parts Manual Online complete with index and pictures. I see myself using this frequently to troubleshoot and get a better understanding of all the components of the engine. The link is below.

http://public.fotki.com/modeltrucks2...08_dieselengi/

Once I replaced the fuel line, there was no fuel in the valley at an idle. Unfortunately under load it leaked more then before. Just about filled the valley on a 5 mile test run.

My next course of action was to take it all apart again. My lessons learned - 1) If you don't have the right tools or are rusty like me, take the cover to your local diesel mechanic and have them install the seal; 2) Use a Caterpillar factory replacement seal. Fortunately for me the San Antonio Cat House and Iron 3 Diesel Repair in Pleasanton, TX (Woody highly recommended Chad on the WOG and he is a great guy) were within an hour from where I was located. For $20, I could have avoided a lot of frustration and about 8 hours of R&R time.
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  #16  
Old 01-17-2017
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he told me someone came by and he helped a WOG member..

He can fix anything under the beltline on these buses~~~

good deal on the cheap fix!
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