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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #21  
Old 07-10-2010
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The required install kit is probably the intake manifold gaskets, and the O rings that are underneath the pump.
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  #22  
Old 07-10-2010
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Bill,
They look like a very legitimate operation and they have a facility in Allentown, PA that is about 1 1/2 hours from me. I could take the pump off, drive three or 4 hours round trip and have a professionallly rebuilt pump back at the coach ready to install. I will call them Monday and see if this is a possability.

I know it seems like a needless expense, but we are taking off on a 7k+ trip and I don't want to be constantly dealing with the flakey governor operation and the underlying concern that it will #### out in the worst possible place.

Before the leak I was willing to deal with the governor, but now I am not so confident in the pump's dependability.

AAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHHH$$$$$
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  #23  
Old 07-10-2010
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I totally agree,

breakdowns on the road are very expensive, Plus the inconvenience, towing, meals and maybe a motel for several days.
pump repair total on the road could add up tp $3000 or more.
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  #24  
Old 07-10-2010
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Gardner
Send it down this way if you want we got all the tools to rebuild the injection pump and get you going again .
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  #25  
Old 07-10-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Pape View Post
I totally agree,

breakdowns on the road are very expensive, Plus the inconvenience, towing, meals and maybe a motel for several days.
pump repair total on the road could add up tp $3000 or more.


Even a couple belts could add up to that if you let them talk you into other stuff
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  #26  
Old 07-11-2010
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Gardner,

There are many reputable established shops on Ebay, including MWFI.

Here is their Ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Diesel-Store

Any shop that doesn't do at least some business on Ebay is missing out.
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  #27  
Old 07-11-2010
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i would never exchange my good (but leaking)pump for one thats been rebuilt.
You never know where the "rebuilt pump" has been or what its been used on and hours etc.
Get your pump re-sealed instead.
The shop can also advance your timing just a little when they put it back on.

You know just how your pump works,its well behaved and its low mileage.
Keep your pump,and i i was sending it off I would mark it somehow so I know i get MY pump back.

Some rebuilders may be good,and some may be bad,how do you know?
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  #28  
Old 07-11-2010
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Randy,
I hate to agree, but you are right about rebuilds. I can't bring myself to take it to a local CAT shop to remove and replace the pump, they will kill me on the labor. I just have to keep reading and figure it out. It would seem that as long as it is taken out with both the engine and pump pins in place, then it goes in the same way. I just need a small puller for the gear. I don't have the spedo drive on the front, but I assume the rest is the same. I assume the CAT shop can re-seal it for a nice, fat fee.
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  #29  
Old 07-11-2010
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Gardner,
If you live anywhere close to the shore or where there are major fisheries, you can check in that area. When I had mine done(in N.O.,before Katrina) there were many shops that specialized in pump rebuilding. They just asked what horse you wanted, and if they could match the injectors. In this area, a lot of boats(shrimpers) used the 3208 engines. Most are very highly modified!
In the marine industry, they don't care what the engine is, just how much power you want from your pump.
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  #30  
Old 07-11-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcyeaw View Post
Randy,
I hate to agree, but you are right about rebuilds. I can't bring myself to take it to a local CAT shop to remove and replace the pump, they will kill me on the labor. I just have to keep reading and figure it out. It would seem that as long as it is taken out with both the engine and pump pins in place, then it goes in the same way. I just need a small puller for the gear. I don't have the spedo drive on the front, but I assume the rest is the same. I assume the CAT shop can re-seal it for a nice, fat fee.

Gardner,i have no doubt that you can do the R&R of the pump.
The puller is a simple 2 arm puller ,i use a harmonic balancer puller,a steering wheel puller will do it too,you may have to get long bolts to make it work,but thats no brainer.

For the pins you can use 1/4'' drill bits,no need to buy the "special" CAT pins.

Roll the motor over until the front pin goes in,the pump pin should go in at the same time.
Leave the pins in place while you "pop" the gear off with the puller.

The bad part is working on your knees removing the injector lines.
They should come off in two or three sections.
Take plenty of pics so you can get that puzzle put back together.
Call me as needed,or better yet call Jim Harvey! hahahaa!! just kidding!
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