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FC (Forward Control Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your FC model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.......List your FC Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 06-10-2019
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Virtue22 Virtue22 is offline
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Default '77 Ignition problems - Help Appreciated

Well, I need a little help as I must be missing something simple.

Last week I was driving and it began to rain. I turned on windshield wipers and also had L & R blowers, CC, lights…basically a bunch of stuff…then the engine died and I began to smell something burning. I pulled over and found the BATT terminal plug on the back of the ignition switch was melted/burned (also put my nose to it to verify that’s what I was smelling). I also found that I did not have any accessories (CC, blowers, wipers, AUX step, or 12V to the CAT). I figured it was the ignition switch so I ran 12V to the fuel solenoid and got off the road and to a campground. The next morning, as I began to troubleshoot, everything worked normally (I thought the C/B’s reset?) so we pressed on with no problems (started and stopped a couple of times without issue). The next day the problem reappeared.

With main battery switch on I have Volts present on the dash voltmeter (normal).

When I turn the key to the next position the clock comes on and NOTHING ELSE (normally you can hear the solenoid on the 3208 clunk and the solenoid behind the overhead panel powering the distribution panel clunk as well).

The next switch position cranks the starter and turns the engine (which does not start because it’s missing the 12V to the solenoid).

What I Know:

- ALL self-resetting C/B’s are closed and test good.
- The solenoid in the overhead tests good (placed 12V to small post and it
powers everything as it should).
- The ignition switch tests good (power is flowing through it as it should to
ACC/Starter/Ignition)
- Three of the C/B’s on the front distribution panel (behind headlight) DO NOT
have power (when I place 12V on any of them everything powers up as it
should).
- If I place 12V on the fuel solenoid wire, everything powers up as it should.
- If I place 12V on a relay found in the wiring rats nest (littlefuse 204912)
everything powers up as it should (this relay also tested good).
- In another post someone mentioned a solenoid/relay that is located under
the throttle foot pedal…this checked good but on my bus I only have one and
it’s used only for my CC.

Is there’s another solenoid/relay that I’m missing? I know I’m working with a 1977 FC and everything is simple and straight forward but before I completely disassemble the wiring rats nest and disrupt (break) anything else what am I missing?

Thank you, Matt
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Old 06-10-2019
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This is what I think I am reading, everything worked fine until the ignition switch burned, right?
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Old 06-10-2019
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Yes, however the switch is working as designed. It takes 12V from the BATT and supplies the ignition and ACC side as well as the starter when selected. I also swapped in a known good switch and it too acted the same way...power into the ignition and ACC sides but not making it to the front power distribution panel.

So I know I have PWR from the switch but not to the C/B’s.
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Old 06-11-2019
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Mike Hohnstein Mike Hohnstein is offline
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Over loaded vintage ignition switch, oldest one in the book as far as FC short coming. Supply wiper motors, blower motors, fuel solenoid, headlights with cube relays. Ignition switch will be happy only having to supply signal rather than being over loaded.
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Old 06-11-2019
Bearmtnmartin Bearmtnmartin is offline
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The ignition is fed off a skinny little orange wire that causes a lot of problems. If you divert it to a big relay as a signal wire, it will take care of the shutoff solenoid issue along with everything else that is run off the key. Then run a much heavier wire from the relay to the battery.
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Old 06-11-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Virtue22 View Post
Yes, however the switch is working as designed. It takes 12V from the BATT and supplies the ignition and ACC side as well as the starter when selected. I also swapped in a known good switch and it too acted the same way...power into the ignition and ACC sides but not making it to the front power distribution panel.

So I know I have PWR from the switch but not to the C/B’s.
If the power is getting through the ignition switch but not getting to the ignition fuse/breaker panel, I would suspect that a bad set of pins in a multi-pin connector is dropping the voltage. For that vintage, it may be a rectangular shaped connector rather than a round Amp connector - in either case, probably about 12 wires in the connector.
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Old 06-13-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselbird01 View Post
If the power is getting through the ignition switch but not getting to the ignition fuse/breaker panel, I would suspect that a bad set of pins in a multi-pin connector is dropping the voltage. For that vintage, it may be a rectangular shaped connector rather than a round Amp connector - in either case, probably about 12 wires in the connector.
WINNER WINNER chicken dinner!!!

That was exactly the problem, ING wire running through a multi-pin connector.





I have also picked up the relay John Finn recommended (great write-up/tutorial, he is missed) to do the upgrade to the fuel shutoff solenoid (I am losing 1.5V to the solenoid).

Thank you everyone, the help is most appreciated!
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  #8  
Old 06-13-2019
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These are age old problems in the Wanderlodge world. My strategy has been to:

- Reduce load by upgrading to LED lights
- Ensure the alternator is charging well above 13V
- Ensure batteries are in good condition and your voltage while driving should never drop below 13.0V
- Try not to drive at night and rain
- Upgrade your ignition switch
- Driving in very hot weather also adds to the heat and burned wire/connector issue

Lower voltage = higher amps + more load = heat = burned wires

This is much less of an issue in the late model FC's that added relays on many of the circuits talked about in this thread.
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1988 FC-35SB 300HP/ZF (2016-current)
1978 GMC Royale 26' (2015-2016)
1982 FC-33SB 250HP (2007-2009)
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