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Engine Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's engine.

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  #11  
Old 06-09-2013
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Crit Bliss Crit Bliss is offline
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Clean the frame end of that strap and the frame, eventually add a big cable directly back to where the battery negatives all mount.
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  #12  
Old 06-09-2013
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Kris, Not long ago a new member had the same problem. A connector had come off his neutral safety switch. It's mounted on the shifter. Might check there. Also that ford looking solenoid John has posted pictures of went bad on our FC. I replaced it and all was good again.
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  #13  
Old 06-09-2013
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Labrador Labrador is offline
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Kris, Gardner was right about that A/T switch (Anti Theft). My bus would not start from the front ignition switch because I did not realize I had inadvertently turned the A/T switch on. As a bonus I spent an hour replacing the front/rear starter starter switch on my PT before another member kindly suggested the A/T switch could be causing my problem; sure enough that was it.

I didn't feel very smart after realizing my starting problem was based on simply flipping a switch that I forgot my bus had, but you have to love simple and cheap solutions.
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  #14  
Old 06-09-2013
kroosmd kroosmd is offline
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Between soccer games today, I stopped over and quickly tried starting my bird with the A/T switch in both positions and no dice.

My A/T Switch sits vertically on the dash in the upper right corner. I would think I would want it in the off position to start but I tried both positions.

I have two boys who play travel soccer so I had limited time today to try things. I will try cleaning the ground strap that runs to the starter and some of the other suggestions very soon.

Thanks to everyone who posted and I think I finally got my signature updated correctly. Mine has the rear bath.
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Kris Roos
Grandville, mi
82 FC35 RB
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  #15  
Old 06-09-2013
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The only thing I see with your signature is the 3208 NA. Are you sure it's a NA? No Turbo? The 3208 T was standard in 83 I think.
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  #16  
Old 06-09-2013
Friday1 Friday1 is offline
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At the least to troubleshoot this no start problem you will need a willing assistant and a 12VDC test light. Also a DVOM meter would help. Shouldn't be hard to find where the power is stopping with these tools. Throwing parts at it can get expensive fast. Some good suggestions here but without tracking the power to find out why it isn't getting to the starter field coils, you are working with one hand tied behind your back.

Rick in Ohio
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  #17  
Old 06-09-2013
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RGloverii RGloverii is offline
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I also think that before you start buying anything, you need to think about this:

When you are trying to start the coach, you are hearing NO clicks at all? From the solenoids. If you hear no clicks, AND the voltage meter doesn't budge (down towards 0) when trying to start it, that would lead me to believe that your problem is at the dash. The signal to start the coach isn't getting from the ignition switch to the starter.

Like Rick said you're going to need a good volt meter to continue. Check your ignition switch, check the solenoids. See where the interrupt in the starting signal is. You'll find it. Just takes a methodical approach.
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  #18  
Old 06-09-2013
Bearmtnmartin Bearmtnmartin is offline
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Its mechanical so if the fuel shut off solenoid on top of the motor is energized(jump it if need be) you can apply 12 volts to the starter or bridge the solenoid and it will fire up. Then if need be you can drive it to a mechanic.
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Martin Sparkes
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  #19  
Old 06-09-2013
kroosmd kroosmd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick View Post
The only thing I see with your signature is the 3208 NA. Are you sure it's a NA? No Turbo? The 3208 T was standard in 83 I think.
I screwed up, it is an 82. I was reading about 1983s and I convinced myself it was an 83. It does not have the turbo.
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Kris Roos
Grandville, mi
82 FC35 RB
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  #20  
Old 06-09-2013
kroosmd kroosmd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Friday1 View Post
At the least to troubleshoot this no start problem you will need a willing assistant and a 12VDC test light. Also a DVOM meter would help. Shouldn't be hard to find where the power is stopping with these tools. Throwing parts at it can get expensive fast. Some good suggestions here but without tracking the power to find out why it isn't getting to the starter field coils, you are working with one hand tied behind your back.

Rick in Ohio
I have a sweet Fluke DMM and a semi-willing teenage son, now I just need some time to tinker. Man, I hate it when my job gets in the way.
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