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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #11  
Old 10-05-2010
davidmbrady
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
Thanks again. Okay, one more comment on this mostly for me to better understand. In the factory set up the slide circuit at the full out and full in positions is broken by magnetic sensors. Since there are no contact points on these sensors would my changing from the limit switches I now have to magnetic limiters eliminate the need for diode snubbers?

Also, where could I buy a time delay relay?
I'd be surprised if the magnetic sensors can source the 15 plus amps your motor requires. Furthermore, these magnetic sensors tend to be Hall Effect devices; in other words, they're solid state and won't survive an inductive spike. To implement magnetic sensors you need to divide your circuitry into a control block and a motor drive block. The control block includes all your switches and sensors, and the motor drive block includes your heavy duty relays and snubbers to drive the 15 amps required by the motor. This way the switches and sensors in the control block never see the inductive voltage spikes. The snubbers protect the heavy duty relay contacts in the motor drive block.
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  #12  
Old 10-06-2010
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Christian Christian is offline
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You will need to power the motor with another high current relay.
Time delay to control it
I assume seals dont seal when closed?
So only when bringing in an extended slide would you need a delay?
http://www.hometech.com/hts/googlebase.html?item=EL-960
Otherwise you might need one for forward and reverse
type in 12 volt time delay relay into google
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  #13  
Old 10-06-2010
Dennis Dennis is offline
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Thanks David and Richard.
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  #14  
Old 10-06-2010
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Sure thing Dennis,

I love this forum, and I really like to be helpful.

With these smaller amp rating relays and switches and limits you may consider having all of your current wiring (no pun intended) power a reversing relay then all your wiring becomes control wiring, still works all the same,you would change only the wiring at the motor with a reversing relay....for the high current motor, it will keep the motor from voltage drop as well as run lower current
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=200370257707
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  #15  
Old 10-06-2010
Dennis Dennis is offline
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Christian, Would this reversing relay take care of the spike situation that David speaks about? Where would I attach the time delay relay with this? I wish I understood the subject matter better. Thanks again.
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2004 M380
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  #16  
Old 10-06-2010
davidmbrady
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Dennis,

I did a quick search for a Cole Hersee 24452 data sheet, but couldn't find one. (It may be there, I didn't take a lot of time). From the marketing info I did find, it doesn't appear to include any snubber circuitry, so external diodes are still necessary. You can use rectifying diodes, four would be required. They'd be placed from ground to the motor and the from the motor to power. They should be rated at 12V and 15A. Do this on both sides of the motor. You're just wiring from one relay contact to another - everything is done at the relay itself.
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  #17  
Old 10-06-2010
Dennis Dennis is offline
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Okay, thanks for checking.
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  #18  
Old 10-06-2010
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Capacitors will help a bit but what causes these spikes is the falling field on any motor, transformer, or relay. What happens is when the item is turned off the field that was there collapses and creates a momentary voltage spike. Electronics hate them. The best way to cancel them is like has been suggested ziener diodes that will clamp or (short) the spike and run it to ground.

I am not sure of the items being suggested but if it where me and I didn't have a part number or source the best way to get rid of spikes is with a ziener diode. You would put it across your line in both directions +- and -+ just after the supply to the circuit before the switches. I would assume (not knowing the values that would be optimal I would go with a 20 volt ziener diode at 1-5 amps and you want a fast diode like Schottky diode. These are not regular diodes they conduct electricity after it gets to 20 volts (spike) or any voltage they are rated at....
You want to be careful about where you place them because if you ever have a charger that goes bad it will try to burn these diodes so there should be fusing before them. I might even put them in an electrical box they might get hot some day. If someone has a line on which diodes you need I would trust that knowledge over mine because the values I picked out are just tongue and cheek. I know 20 volts seems like a lot but for instance on AC spikes they clamp at 400+ volts at Peek to peek. Also some larger ziener diodes located at the main batteries may not be a bad idea just make sure to fuse them. The spikes are very low current.
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  #19  
Old 10-06-2010
davidmbrady
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Something like this will work:

http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...xjtddsphwy.pdf

Look at any of your constant use "Mastered" or "Ignition" solenoids on your bus (the ones that handle 100's of amps). All these devices have diodes around the coils. Pick a part number and post it, and we'll see if it will work. The trick is that the current we're shunting to ground is a "surge" current. The RMS current of the diode isn't that important - the Breakdown Voltage is important. The above diode is interesting cause it has a large PN junction square area, it can handle a lot of power. Your power is roughly 12*15 or 180W, but it's for a very short period of time so heat shouldn't be an issue.
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  #20  
Old 10-06-2010
Stephen Stephen is offline
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insead of using bits and pieces why dont you use a plc and the appropriate motor.ts a linear drive not something new
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