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Tires, Wheels, Brakes, Steering and Suspensions Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's Tires, Wheels, Brakes, Steering and Suspensions and related components.

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Old 03-07-2021
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Default Chasing a Air Leak

I'm chasing down a air leak (what's new) and airing up with shop air. Cannot find air leak but a couple questions.

1- My air governor releases (psst) at 135+ psi so i was going to replace it, but between the governor and the Schrader valve is what looks like a PPV with a hex bolt, it leaks quite a bit and I want to replace it also. What is it(picture)?

2- Not sure if related to air leak, but when using my aux. compressor for dumping... if I have the susp. dump down I cannot built air past 20psi, if I toggle the susp. up it builds. I can even dump the susp. around 30psi then it builds up properly. Any ideas?

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Old 03-07-2021
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That is a PPV,it controls when the pressure gets to the bulk oil tank,and it is on the aux side of the system.
I also suspect when hooked to shop air and you get an air dump at 135psi its not the Gov.
Its most likely the pop off on the dryer or an air tank pop off,you need a regulator on your shop air.
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Old 03-07-2021
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I'm not getting a air dump on shop air @130 psi, most it'll do. Regulated.
Only under S60 am I hearing the dump.

I'll check those suggestions
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Old 03-07-2021
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So I can delete the bulk oil, never used it. I need to follow that air line better tomorrow. I'd a sworn it went to the governor.
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Old 03-07-2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
That is a PPV,it controls when the pressure gets to the bulk oil tank,and it is on the aux side of the system.
I have a PPV in the exact same spot and yes, it supplies the bulk oil. On my '91, it's supplied from the wet tank, and thus needs a PPV to protect the brake system.

I'm in the process of replacing leaky PPV valves right now. I have found (3):

- one between the wet tanks and all the aux air destinations including the air suspension

- one that only supplies the air actuated retarder

- the one pictured for the bulk oil fill.

BTW, if you delete the bulk oil fill, someone may want the cap as I think it also fits the fuel tanks (or you now have a spare).

I found it amusing that the only PPV I had that was NOT leaking was the one for the bulk oil that is easily accessible and easy to replace. And all of them appear original to the bus.

Other air leaks I have found:

- PTC fittings at regulator for air actuated slide cover at top of 'staircase'.
- Air pressure switch under air step that extends step due to low air pressure
- 2 of the 3 PPV valves
- both 30PSI low pressure switches for tag/susp dump detection.
- fitting gaskets at dump 'mouse valves' under breast plate.
- fitting for Right air vent.

Hope that helps.
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Old 03-07-2021
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Oh, and a leak at the air horn valves in the overhead at the PTC fittings. I replaced a section of 1/4" line in order to relocate them as well as straighten the airline at the fittings.

Any time I'm around PTC fittings, I soap them and give them a wiggle. If they leak, you can usually fix them by just removing the airline, squarely cutting off ~1/2" from the end, and reinserting. Keeping any angle/stress off of them usually helps keep them from leaking. You can also use tube inserts to help keep them from developing leaks. Or buy the expensive brake fittings, which I believe have internal tube inserts.
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Old 03-08-2021
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Thanks. Is the air dryer pop off attached to the air dryer itself or inline?
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Old 03-08-2021
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Thanks. Is the air dryer pop off attached to the air dryer itself or inline?
The sound comes from inside the air drier as it blows out its pressure and any moisture. But the event is triggered by the governor.

The governor has a spring loaded plunger that is applied from 'wet tank' air pressure, which comes from the output of the dryer. When the spring reaches its adjustment point, it retracts and sends air pressure out to BOTH the compressor and the dryer. At the compressor, it unloads the head pressure so it quits compressing air. At the dryer, it triggers a dump of the internal air and moisture. There are check valves at the output of the compressor and dryer that prevent air from flowing back into them.
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Old 03-08-2021
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I think I've found it, correct?
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Old 03-08-2021
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I may have misunderstood your prior question. To be clear:

That's a safety in case your pressure gets too high (due to a bad governor). It's probably set above 150psi. It should never blow off air in normal use. If it's bad, you will get a continuous hissing leak sound as the pressure increases.

The normal sound of a dryer is a single pop; "Psssssshhhh" that lasts a couple seconds.

When hooked to shop air, the air dryer (including that safety valve) should not be a factor since there should be a check valve between the dryer output and the wet tank (the shop air side). At least that's how my '91 is plumbed. You may want to double check yours so I don't send you in the wrong direction.
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