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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #51  
Old 10-06-2018
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Originally Posted by NoGas View Post
If that’s what you want... I believe (not at home so I can’t check this) the left relay is OFF when the engine ignition key is turned OFF and ON when it is turned ON (which is why it doesn’t get hot & use current when off-grid boondocking). If true, why not trigger the right relay off the left one? The slide relay & controller would be ON when driving and use current, but who cares?
That's a great idea. Thanks.
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2007 Double Slide M380 "Bertie"
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  #52  
Old 10-07-2018
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If you are going to do that you will have to listen to all of those alarms, run the lift pump, etc. whenever you need to operate the slide. If I were going to do that I would probably do the extra work to run it off the accessory relay.
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  #53  
Old 10-07-2018
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Originally Posted by DonB View Post
If you are going to do that you will have to listen to all of those alarms, run the lift pump, etc. whenever you need to operate the slide. If I were going to do that I would probably do the extra work to run it off the accessory relay.
Hmmm. Does that left relay operate only with ignition key in the run position, not the accessory? The rear slide wants the accessory position turned on anyway. I'll be out there checking it soon.

I installed the ME-BMK yesterday and noticed that the current draw jumped up 12A as soon as the key was turned to run.
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2007 Double Slide M380 "Bertie"
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  #54  
Old 10-07-2018
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Hmmm. Does that left relay operate only with ignition key in the run position, not the accessory?
I just tested it. The answer is that it is on only in RUN position of the ignition, not the ACCESSORY position.


I also found several wires that are on in both accessory and run. One was 50% cut through by a mouse or other gnawing critter. It goes to a 7.5A fuse marked ignition. I'll repair it and use it to trigger the slide relay.
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  #55  
Old 10-08-2018
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I will be curious if you end up testing the Amp draw of the front slide computer.

Yesterday, I had the fridge off (and propane valve off, well 90% sure valve was off) and I saw -3.6A with no 12V accessories on.
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  #56  
Old 10-08-2018
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I will be curious if you end up testing the Amp draw of the front slide computer.

Yesterday, I had the fridge off (and propane valve off, well 90% sure valve was off) and I saw -3.6A with no 12V accessories on.
With the fridge off and all lights off, I've got a 3.6 to 4 amp draw. Today I measured the draw on the front slide computer at the right large relay under the driver window.

The front slide controller takes 0.39A passing through the relay. However, the always-on relay itself is using 0.73A just to keep the relay on! That's a total draw of 1.12A. While inspecting the rats nest of wiring in the under window compartment (probably due to some problem the PO had) I noticed that two wires, both red and black, had been chewed.

There must be something in those colors the critter found tasty as they were the only ones chewed and they were separated by wires of other colors.

Back tracing, it turned out one was connected to the 7.5A fuse marked "Coach Ign" This wire was connected to 12v when the ignition is on run or accessory. Since I had to cut and splice it anyway, I connected a short jumper from it to the right relay control stud and removed the previous control wire. I left the previous relay control wire unconnected and insulated/taped off.

It seems to work perfectly. The slide electronics are powered on when the engine is running, producing air, or when the ignition key is turned to accessory.

My battle against non essential vampire battery drain just made a 1.12A decrease out of 3.6-4 amps. That's a good start.

I'm thinking about the other drains. The two relays controlled by the 12v Master switch on the dash are probably comparably large.
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  #57  
Old 10-08-2018
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The arrow shows the wire I used as well as the red wire jumper I spliced in to control the relay for the front slide. There is at least one more red/blk wire, so if you do this check that you have the correct wire. It should have 12v voltage with the ignition in both run and accessory and it should have no power with the ignition in one of those positions and the breaker marked "Coach Ign" pulled out.

That breaker is 3rd column from the left, 2nd row down, 7.5A on my coach.
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  #58  
Old 10-08-2018
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BTW, does anyone know how to get to the two master relays operated by the 12V master switch on the dash? I've heard they are behind the circuit breaker panel in front of the passenger seat, under the dash, but I didn't see any easy access there.
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  #59  
Old 10-08-2018
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BTW, does anyone know how to get to the two master relays operated by the 12V master switch on the dash?
There is probably some way to release the panel from the three brackets - one came off the same type of mount when I was doing my headlight mods - but I don't know how they are released. The phillips head screws in the brackets themselves should be easy to remove so the whole assembly comes out.
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  #60  
Old 10-08-2018
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I removed the screws holding the breaker panel, but then I had a panel hanging from the rear wires. They were very stiff and I didn't want to swing it too far out for fear of breaking something. I'll take another look.
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