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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #31  
Old 02-07-2009
White Hat Guy's Avatar
White Hat Guy White Hat Guy is offline
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Default Battery location

Thanks Robert and Dick:

That question was one of those "you always wanted to know, but was afraid to ask". My bird had that many batteries when I bought it. I later had all new batteries put in. I figured it had to do with boondocking, but that is something I haven't done yet.

At Jesse Gibson's (former BB tech) suggestion when I replaced the batteries, I installed two new Progressive 80 watt converters with the charge wizard. Since I keep connected all the time I have not had a problem with sulfating or charging since then and they are always hot and ready to go.

Had not thought about using the batteries to travel with the 8v92 as an auxillary....hmmmm. Maybe John Finn can come up with a plan to do just that.
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  #32  
Old 02-07-2009
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Definately boondocking! I've ran a regular refridge in my '63 Bluebird conversion for 4 years now with good success. Got tired of $1400 dual power systems that didn't work well. I put in a 10 cu ft refridge and ran with just a 3 deep cycle 12v house system. The trick is to get a refridge without a defrost cycle (saves power) and be picky on the current draw. Most these only draw about 1.2 amps when running so it's not much more than a heater motor on the DC side. Also when installed in the wall it adds insulation so they don't need to run all that often.

I use a cheap 900w portable generator when I'm boondocking to run a 45 amp charger. That way I can use a cheap unregulated generator ($100), it's quiet, and economical to use. That bus was just designed for small 3-4 day get-a-ways and the system works great. I now use the 900w generator with my 78 Wanderlodge just to save ware & tear on my 12.5 kw. So far the only issue has been hot water and I'm thinking of a propane hot water system to aid my regular 120v one. Still trying to figure out if I want to replace my exisinting 10 gallon 120v/engine tank with a 120v/propane or just add the propane to the existing? I'm finding I do more boondocking than I originally thought I would so the currently battery bank definately is getting larger!
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  #33  
Old 02-07-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White Hat Guy View Post
Good morning everyone:

To enhance my journey through the learning curve, a question. On my coach I have sixteen 12 v (yes, 16 batteries). 4 in the engine compartment, 8 in the curbside battery tray and 4 in the street side bay where the transfer switch is located. There is no battery in my genny compartment, although there is a space where one could have been located or was at one time. I do have an electric household refrigerator.

Why so many batteries?
My coach has six type 4D (225 amp/hour) 12 volt house batteries -- I believe this is the stock setup. I also have 3 (type 35?) engine batteries. Makes a total of 9 batteries. I have an all-electric coach with a 22 cu ft Amana side-by-side refrigerator. I suspect that the 16 batteries you have were installed by a P.O. or where installed as an upgrade/option if OEM. The electric only refrigerator would have been a factor, but the 6 house batteries I have seem to be adequate. Although the coach isn't the best choice for extended boondocking, mostly due to the electric cook top.

At some point, BB quite using a separate battery for the generator, using the house batteries for genny starting with the ability to add the engine batteries to the mix to get more power (dash board switch).
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  #34  
Old 10-31-2017
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It's an old post, tech may be new by now.

What am I supposed to buy to separate the house and start batteries?
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  #35  
Old 10-31-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaaksma View Post
It's an old post, tech may be new by now.

What am I supposed to buy to separate the house and start batteries?
Nope.. gotta wait longer for newer "tech".


Aside from the isolation diodes or (better) the isolation solenoids you can go fancy and get a marine voltage triggered isolation unit but they are simply more expensive versions of the latter.
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