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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #21  
Old 06-23-2010
AC7880 AC7880 is offline
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And just to remove one more possibility, if your inverter was on when the hot skin occurred, retest with inverter both on and off.

Note: On our 94 BMCs, the inverter does not charge the batteries, only the converter charges the batteries. If you are plugging in only to keep the batteries charged versus needing 110 volt in the coach - when I kept my 94 on the side of my sticks and bricks, I plugged the 20 amp extension cord from my garage directly into the converter charger to keep the batteries up, not using the coach shore line cord at all. Of course you will still need to find the source of the hot skin to make sure you will be safe under all future conditions. I suspect your shore extension cord hookup more than suspecting the coach itself.

Check out adding a Progressive Industries EMS or similar on your incoming shore power cord. http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems_hw50c.htm They and others make versions for permanent install, and ones you just plug in at the pedestal. I wired a permanent one in.
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  #22  
Old 06-23-2010
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Wow - that is an older thread. Hey Steve, what did you find out way back then?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick View Post
P. Did you notice you are replying to a thread that has been dead for over a year?
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  #23  
Old 06-24-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fxdwg View Post
If you take a gander over at Ernie's site, you should be able to find an excellent writeup of a "Hot Skin Test" by Ralph Fullenwider. It's a very good writeup and explaination of how to troubleshoot what you're possibly experiencing. Everybody should do this test to their coach once a year just to stay on top of possible electrical problems.

After further consideration (and realizing how much of a dufus I probably was), I looked at the site here and found this:

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...KIN%20TEST.doc

It's the hot skin test I was referring to.
Thanks John and the Forum,

I had forgotten about checking the coach for this and used Ralph's method to check my bus. I have steel cornor posts in my Motorhome garage that I used for a ground. First test with meter set @ 1.5V showed .001V to .009 V on the meter. A little water on the post/ground stabilized the connection, then the meter showed .000 to .001V. My bus is good.
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  #24  
Old 08-21-2010
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these test only show issue if the appliance with a fault is plugged in or turned on. its a false sense of security. I test my pool lite with a tennis ball. Its hard to get onw of my rots to open the door by tossing a ball in the bus.
The do not bond neutral to ground in the bus rule is only true fro shore power. when on inverter or genset the bus is bonded onboard for those circuits. I see a prob here for folks who dont set it up correctly with aftermarket mods.

I never understood the Lost Neutral issue and asked a underwriters lab engineer to explain the lost neutral dynamic. simple but it requires a diagram to explain. this would be a good point for you guys to go over. there may be a vid or diagram some place
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  #25  
Old 08-21-2010
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A good rule of thumb I read was to connect the neutral & ground together ONLY at the source of power. So the bus would have isolated neutral/ground and shore power would supply the bond. In case of a generator or inverter I'd suspect the same is true when it is the source of power.
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