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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #11  
Old 08-08-2013
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Crit Bliss Crit Bliss is offline
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My sister's coach could use a couple cables, Don.
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  #12  
Old 08-08-2013
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warbucks13477 warbucks13477 is offline
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i have no idea how mqny battery cables I have made over thE years but the best were made with welding cable. there is however a downside to using it, abasion and cut resistance. but do not solder them for two reasons. welding cable wires are very difficult to solder completely even usimg a good flux because of the many wires and solderimg them makes them hardened at the junction between the end and the wires promoting breaking. The best way to attach the cable ends is to crimp them same as all aircraft cables are done. crimping forces the wires into a solid mass making a far better end. also anywhere cable end are located mear batteries you must seal the juntion between cable and end With heavy duty sealable shrink tubing. Good luck.
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  #13  
Old 08-08-2013
Don Meyer Don Meyer is offline
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Thanks for the input Tom. I always use a good sealing shrink tube. And I often coat the joint where the jacket meets the copper end with a little silicone as well. nThen shrink the tube over it. Makes a nice seal. I've been soldering all my battery cable for nearly 10 years. Haven't had a problems so far. I like the solder idea because it creates a solid end where corrosion and moisture can not enter. And using a good shrink tube gives double protection. And as far as abrasion goes, where ever that is a possibility I use the spit tube protective casing over the cable.
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  #14  
Old 08-09-2013
rrueckwald rrueckwald is offline
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Don,

Count me out; I decided to do it before the trip south. Thanks.
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  #15  
Old 08-10-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warbucks13477 View Post
i have no idea how mqny battery cables I have made over thE years but the best were made with welding cable. there is however a downside to using it, abasion and cut resistance. but do not solder them for two reasons. welding cable wires are very difficult to solder completely even usimg a good flux because of the many wires and solderimg them makes them hardened at the junction between the end and the wires promoting breaking. The best way to attach the cable ends is to crimp them same as all aircraft cables are done. crimping forces the wires into a solid mass making a far better end. also anywhere cable end are located mear batteries you must seal the juntion between cable and end With heavy duty sealable shrink tubing. Good luck.
Tom is correct. Crimped connections will transmit more current with less voltage drop than soldered connections. The tight bond created during the crimping process conducts better than the materials used in the solder, lead, tin, ect.... Learned that studying electronics back in the '80's. Wow.. I paid attention in class!

Proper sealing will protect the connection from corrosion.
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  #16  
Old 08-10-2013
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Default Your Choice- Solder or Crimp

For anyone with a preference either way, I will also be a the WOG rally and Don will have the "unlimited" use of my Greenlee Crimper (since he's such a great guy) Since this thread seems to be about "all things battery cables", I thought I would share some photos of my techniques. Like Don, I also use either 2/0 or 4/0 cable, with tinned lugs. Each exposed cable end gets a coating of "Kopr Sheild". When making actual "battery-top" cables, I try to also use tinned 2/0 to link individual batteries due to the presence of corrosive gases. Although I seal the ends with adhesive lined shrink tubing, a small nick or chafe would expose uncoated copper and tinned cable gives an added layer of protection.



















For cable runs under the coach that may suffer abrasion, I use 3/4" flexible electrical conduit from lowe's. It's relatively cheap and very hard to cut.

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  #17  
Old 08-10-2013
Jim Brookshire Jim Brookshire is offline
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Couldn't wait Ron!!! Does that mean that your list is almost done???
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  #18  
Old 08-10-2013
bubblerboy64 bubblerboy64 is offline
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I think I would lean towards 0000 cable while you're at it. Especially from the batteries to the starter. Right Shane? In the scheme of things not that much more money. Shane's crimper is the NUTS for doing the job. Have no personal background to debate the soldering VS crimping but with this crimping tool if its equal or better it's the way to go for sure. If you have a couple guys working at it it goes pretty quickly. Three would be ideal. One guy measuring and installing. One cutting the cables (which by the way Shane and I discovered a heavy tree branch cutter will handle 0000 in one pass) and stripping the wire ends. Third guy crimping the lugs. You could work thru a bunch of material in a day. I just bought some 0000 cable and I think 25 ft was about $125 with shipping. Not cheap but while you're doing it may as well do it right. What's a couple hundred bucks anyways????
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  #19  
Old 08-10-2013
Rick Davis Rick Davis is offline
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A Greenlee Crimper! Whoo Doggies Mr. Drysdale, Shane's moving on up from his vise-held crimper and socket wrench.
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  #20  
Old 08-10-2013
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The knock on solder alone is after a time in service vibration 'might' crack the bond. Shane's pic's show the real method of building a long term solution to a frequently over looked component.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/battery-cable-crimper

Lot's of way to skin that cat.
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