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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #11  
Old 08-22-2009
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curtsprenger curtsprenger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Dupree View Post
I may be wrong,but trying to run a 320Amp alternator with the same belt set up is not going to work long.
It will be hard on belts.
Stick with the 160s and you will be fine.
Folks...listen to Randy..GOOD ADVISE for sure.
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  #12  
Old 08-22-2009
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Unlike Randy, I do not even know where my local truck deraler is located. I picked up one rebuilt on eBay for $80 incl shipping. I do not know if this one is like yours

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PREST...ehicleQ5fParts
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  #13  
Old 08-22-2009
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Super. Thanks to you boys I am slowly getting comfy with this big bird beast.


A follow-on question then:
For the moment, do I just worry about replacing the easily-accessed #1 alt and carry an extra, and not worry about trying to get to the #2 hard one right now?
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  #14  
Old 08-22-2009
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I would try to get them both replaced,then if one quits on the road you can still get home,and then fix the bad one when you can.
Or,replace the easy one and do the other when you can!
Neither one is easy..
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  #15  
Old 08-31-2009
Rick Davis Rick Davis is offline
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Default Leese Neville part #

I need to quickly order two new Leese Neville 160 amp alternators and have them shipped to the house awaiting my arrival the end of this week. I have decided that I am taking the coach on Saturday to Suncoast RV in Byron to have the alts and a new inverter/charger installed, and they say it would be cheaper for me to bring the alts.

For my 1993 8V92, would the # be the same 8LHA2070VE (110-555JHO) J mount that I see referenced often on other threads? Can I assume it is the same for both the #1 and #2 alts? Anything else I need to order?

I'm curious too, when it comes to getting to the alt on the tranny end I have seen references to having to access it from the bedroom. Is this access from directly under the bed, or does it involve the flooring?
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  #16  
Old 08-31-2009
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I get the leece-nevilles from the freightliner truck dealer in ocala Fl.
Mike H got the same deal from a freightliner dealer near him.
See if theres a dealer near your home.

To get to the front alt. you have to remove the baseboard along the back all,3-4 screws,and then pull up the raised part of the bedroom floor between the bed and the back wall,under that is a metal plate,remove it and you can see the alternator.
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  #17  
Old 08-31-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Davis View Post
On the #1 alt (which I assume is the one out front and most accessable) I get a bit of needle movement on the guage, but on the #2 (which I assume is the one at the back of the engine) I get zilch. Assuming the one that works is even weak, I thought I would replace it with a new one and carry a spare, or replace both.

I read references in various posts to both 160 amp and 320 amp alternators. To an electrical dummy, is the only difference (other than price of course) that the bigger one will charge batts quicker? And if getting the 320 amp, would any changes be needed to the regulator or anything?
Rick here's a link to some pics that might help

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.co...ght=alternator
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  #18  
Old 08-31-2009
Rick Davis Rick Davis is offline
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Thanks Rob. That looks like loads of fun, especially considering my usual case of "wrench dropsy". Randy, no wonder you wondered if there were even belts on my alt.
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1993 WB40 "freeNeasy"-Sold
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  #19  
Old 08-31-2009
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Don't worry Rick it isn't that bad.
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  #20  
Old 08-31-2009
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its not bad unless your 6'2'' and 250lbs,then it sucks!
Getting down between the bed and the back wall is tough,but getting out of there is worse!
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