Oops I did it again! :-)

[MrPutz]

Originally Posted by Fullerr

Mine has 2
Hose numbers. CAT PCV HOSES: 9N-6480 short and 9N-6481 long

Thanx Rutledge, I've confirmed my single hose is a 9N-6480. Not sure I'm going to put the driver's side PCV valve cover on yet until I get my throttle & cruise control mounting figured out. My problem is that the replacement 250T engine came off a Ford truck so arrangement needs to be modified for our doghouse. Oil dip stick location, tranny dip stick mount, fuel filter location, PVC valve covers, power steering mount, air cleaner, etc.. all needs to be modified.

Originally Posted by tqwrench

If you look at where the tubes are on the intake, they're on the suck side, not the pressure side. Tubes go in just below the air filter on the intake, ahead of the turbo, so their purpose is to start closing down as vacuum increases to prevent too much oil pullover. They are fully open at idle which is when a diesel creates the most blowby anyway.

I was a little confused on the "suck side" as the turbo creates positive pressure in the intake manifold? As you stated the PCV may be more designed for idle when there is no to little boost?

[tqwrench]

Originally Posted by MrPutz

I was a little confused on the "suck side" as the turbo creates positive pressure in the intake manifold? As you stated the PCV may be more designed for idle when there is no to little boost?

The intake is cast with two separate paths. One is from the air filter to the turbo inlet (this is where the PCV tubes go), the other is from the turbo compressor side (outlet) back to the intake. If we had a charge air cooler, it would go from the compressor side into the CAC, back, and into the intake again. Here's a turbo intake for sale: https://www.vanderhaags.com/detailvi...?part=24256568. You can see the turbo inlet/outlet. Two completely separate flow paths in one cast piece. I had mine off, cleaned it, looked in there with a light & mirror and all.

[MrPutz]

Originally Posted by tqwrench

The intake is cast with two separate paths. One is from the air filter to the turbo inlet (this is where the PCV tubes go), the other is from the turbo compressor side (outlet) back to the intake. If we had a charge air cooler, it would go from the compressor side into the CAC, back, and into the intake again. Here's a turbo intake for sale: https://www.vanderhaags.com/detailvi...?part=24256568. You can see the turbo inlet/outlet. Two completely separate flow paths in one cast piece. I had mine off, cleaned it, looked in there with a light & mirror and all.

Thanx Kris, I had to back and remove the air filter so I could look at this again to make sure we're on the same page. I understand what you are saying BUT my intake has the high pressure side tapped on the far side and going to the valve cover, it's plugged on this side and not used. The near side is tapped for high and low but neither are used. I'm thinking I need to remove the far side high pressure to the valve cover, plug it, and use the low pressure tap on the front side to this valve cover? I think I see now why they went with only one PCV on the 250T engines now?

[tqwrench]

Originally Posted by MrPutz

Thanx Kris, I had to back and remove the air filter so I could look at this again to make sure we're on the same page. I understand what you are saying BUT my intake has the high pressure side tapped on the far side and going to the valve cover, it's plugged on this side and not used. The near side is tapped for high and low but neither are used. I'm thinking I need to remove the far side high pressure to the valve cover, plug it, and use the low pressure tap on the front side to this valve cover? I think I see now why they went with only one PCV on the 250T engines now?

No, that road side PCV still enters on the low pressure side. Here's a photo of the top of my engine as I was taking it apart and I marked yours up. The high pressure taps you refer to are for two things on our buses, boost gauge and AFC (aneroid)

[MrPutz]

I'm just not seeing that Kris? The street side PCV in the pic I'm attaching is tapped into the pressure side of the turbo. I understand the other ports for boost gauge & aneroid but I'm going to plug this port up and use the large port on the curb side. The three ports to the right of the curb side (last pic) are where the boost & aneroid are tapped off. If you look closely at the center runner it goes from air filter intake to turbo "in" and there's a port on the curb side but on none on the street side as access is blocked by the pressure side (turbo out) plenum.

[tqwrench]

Originally Posted by MrPutz

I'm just not seeing that Kris? The street side PCV in the pic I'm attaching is tapped into the pressure side of the turbo. I understand the other ports for boost gauge & aneroid but I'm going to plug this port up and use the large port on the curb side. The three ports to the right of the curb side (last pic) are where the boost & aneroid are tapped off. If you look closely at the center runner it goes from air filter intake to turbo "in" and there's a port on the curb side but on none on the street side as access is blocked by the pressure side (turbo out) plenum.

No it is not. Blow smoke through the hole, it will float back out of the intake screen. See bottom of page 2-13 here: https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...0Operation.pdf. Another variation, marine style engine with dual PCV also attached.

[MrPutz]

Originally Posted by tqwrench

No it is not. Blow smoke through the hole, it will float back out of the intake screen. See bottom of page 2-13 here: https://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.c...0Operation.pdf. Another variation, marine style engine with dual PCV also attached.

Thanx Kris, I'll go verify.

Meanwhile... I have broken tranny dipstick on one of my 3208T setups, the handle and little round end stop is gone? So trying to find a replacement. It's 36" long (had a friend verify his is 38" long on an 85FC35)??

Here's a dipstick off my 78FC35 replacement engine that came from a Ford truck. It's the same length but the oil level marks are just slightly off. Anyone found a suitable replacement that's no over $100 from CAT? I put the part number on the Ford dip stick.

[MrPutz]

[QUOTE=MrPutz;612290]Thanx Kris, I'll go verify.

Yup, you are correct Kris, that does plumb out to the intake suction side. It doesn' t visually look that way but they actually casted a tunnel through the pressure side for the PCV tap. Thanx again.. moving forward now...

[MrPutz]

Originally Posted by MrPutz

My genset quit working at Q last January and I've been trying to troubleshoot it ever since. I replaced all the relays, cleaned all the connections, created a new vibration isolator for the control box, replaced the oil pressure switch, radiator over temp switch, etc.. but nothing would keep the genset running.

After studying the schematic for hours I finally figured out the Voltage regulator and its roll in keeping the genset running. While researching I studied "flashing" the genset and decided i'd try that before I shot gun the regulator itself. I jumpered terminals "P" & "20" then fired up the genset. This applied a full 12v to the voltage regulator and fuel solenoid. The genset started and kept running! I did a quick voltage test and found the output to be 146v across L1 & L2 to L0 and 291v between L1 & L2.

I shut the genset down and let it set a few minutes, removed the jumper, and fired it up again. This time it started and stayed running on its own and the voltages were back in the mid 120's. I let it run a few minutes then fire up two of the rooftop AC's and now everything seems to be ok?

Went camping up to Williams over the Holiday weekend and enjoyed nice temps of 80 highs and 50 lows. The generator worked flawlessly and we were able to run the AC's all the way up to Flagstaff and drive in comfort from the 116 degree Phoenix weather. However, once we got ready to leave the genset would not keep running again due to no AC output. I took apart the control box and did my 12v jumper for the exciter field but this time it did not work. I measured only 30vac when I held the fuel solenoid on so had to return to Phoenix with no AC.

So back to the drawing board. I'm thinking the regulator must be replaced but will research more troubleshooting techniques to verify that before I start throwing money away.

[MrPutz]

Did you know that if you are not using or removed your bulk air tank on an early FC you can replumb and use that air fitting to power only your genset slide?

I've removed the plumbing from the air switch to the bulk oil tank and added a schrader valve. Now I can charge the valve with 60psi of air and open the genset immediately as there's no tank volume to fill. Since I've been working on my genset a lot lately it's become very handy not having to start the engine and build air pressure just to open the generator.

I found that the 150psi mini pancake compressors will fit into that small bay next to the propane if you disassemble it and reassemble it inside the bay! I did have to cut off the plastic built in handle on the top so I'd have about 1/2" clearance. It was a pain but now can open the genset, fill my tires to 120psi, and air up other vehicle tires without having to start the bus, very handy and quick indeed! The compressor is a newer low amp start model and can run it with my HF inverter without any start up issues.

BTW, I've removed all the engine side plumbing to the bulk oiler and will be removing the oil tank eventually as well.