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Electrical Discussion of preventative/corrective maintenance and other technical issues regarding your coach's electrical system.

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  #1  
Old 01-31-2020
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Angrybird Angrybird is offline
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Default CHASSIS BATTERY CHARGING

Simple question... Does Blue Bird install as standard equipment a charger for the chassis batteries in my 97 43wb ???
I don't think my chassis batteries are being charged. My coach is always plugged into 50amp.
Im well versed in most RV systems and how they function, but Im still learning all the systems in this coach.
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1997 43 WLWB
Jeep Grand Cherokee, Tow'd
Harley Ultra Classic on trailer
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  #2  
Old 01-31-2020
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Make sure the Combiner Switch is on when plugged in. On the upper right side of dash. That will activate the combiner solenoid in the curb side engine compartment bulkhead wall.
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  #3  
Old 01-31-2020
GregOC GregOC is offline
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the combiner solenoid in around 2000 for many rv's were set up with a controller to do the thinking. intellitec makes a combiner controller that will help save your engine alts. alts get muffed when someone drycamps for a day and drains the 8 house batteries and the engine alts are given the task to recharge when you leave camp. the new controllers will delay house charging and combine house and chassis charging with a profile closer to what is best. The new systems also combine banks when there is a need while shore power is hooked up. it event knows if the genset is being used and implements a different profile for maintenane because it realizes the genset charge is short lived.

Problem I find with diagnosing issues is prior owner enhancements and attempts. best way to tell if they combine is to read the house voltage and read the chassis engine voltage at the solenoid connection. if they are same, probably the banks are combined.

my 99lxi did not combine when plugged in as shipped. I was required to switch them combined at the dash. I installed a profile module to combine the banks at given conditions as the chassis batteries seemed to have a couple of dash music amplifiers that stayed powered all the time.
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Old 01-31-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailfins57 View Post
Make sure the Combiner Switch is on when plugged in. On the upper right side of dash. That will activate the combiner solenoid in the curb side engine compartment bulkhead wall.

There is a battery switch on the upper right, when I had it pushed to the left and the light was on the chassis batteries went dead. I now have it in the middle position and will see what is the situation when I get home and post the results later...
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1997 43 WLWB
Jeep Grand Cherokee, Tow'd
Harley Ultra Classic on trailer
Owner at BlackJack Tire and Battery
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  #5  
Old 01-31-2020
GregOC GregOC is offline
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that dash switch is three positions
1-center =off.

2-click ones side =on/combined, light illuminates.
3- other side is a momentary swith you need to hold down to make the combiner activate. designed for jumping banks to get engine started or with some rigs to start the gen set in an emergency.

the light is a bit confusing because the switch can be in the center-off position and a relay down stream that sees the engine running is combining the banks and powering the light also. that relay drops when you park so the only way to charge when parked is to manually throw the switch to the one side that holds


If one bank has a muffed battery combing will drop the good bank.


here is a muff-up many people make. they fail to update engine batteries and combine them all the time and rely on the momentary switch when starting. the combination of both banks when parked with a muffed battery in one bank renders smart chargers to limit the profile it sends to all batteries. it also muffs the avaliable use and solar recharge. since chassis/start and house/coach are often different types the profile of charge and use are different and these intellitec controllers help to overcome those issues.

one other muff up is with the folks who use a standalone trolling motor charger to charge the starting battery bank. when the banks are combined and the stand alone charger is hot. it now is tasked with pumping all 12 batteries.
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  #6  
Old 01-31-2020
al perna al perna is offline
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Joe, When you moved it did you notice the 12v gauge going up ? Pretty simple to determine as noted above . Good Luck I know from past experience that if parked for days parasite loads will drain those group 31 starting batteries .

The purpose of the switch is so if dry camping you would not want the house and coach batteries combined . This way when you return to the coach and if house batteries were low you could still start the coach . But if connected the coach would use what voltage is in the group 31 batteries .
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  #7  
Old 01-31-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregOC View Post
that dash switch is three positions
1-center =off.

2-click ones side =on/combined, light illuminates.
3- other side is a momentary swith you need to hold down to make the combiner activate. designed for jumping banks to get engine started or with some rigs to start the gen set in an emergency.

the light is a bit confusing because the switch can be in the center-off position and a relay down stream that sees the engine running is combining the banks and powering the light also. that relay drops when you park so the only way to charge when parked is to manually throw the switch to the one side that holds


If one bank has a muffed battery combing will drop the good bank.


here is a muff-up many people make. they fail to update engine batteries and combine them all the time and rely on the momentary switch when starting. the combination of both banks when parked with a muffed battery in one bank renders smart chargers to limit the profile it sends to all batteries. it also muffs the avaliable use and solar recharge. since chassis/start and house/coach are often different types the profile of charge and use are different and these intellitec controllers help to overcome those issues.

one other muff up is with the folks who use a standalone trolling motor charger to charge the starting battery bank. when the banks are combined and the stand alone charger is hot. it now is tasked with pumping all 12 batteries.


So, when "on" the batteries are combined and charging ??? Like I said when in the "on" position the batteries went dead. I am going to bring home my Load tester and check the chassis batteries.
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Joe Rocco
Ft Lauderdale, Florida
1997 43 WLWB
Jeep Grand Cherokee, Tow'd
Harley Ultra Classic on trailer
Owner at BlackJack Tire and Battery

Last edited by Angrybird; 01-31-2020 at 02:07 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-31-2020
Big Al Big Al is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregOC View Post
that dash switch is three positions
1-center =off.

2-click ones side =on/combined, light illuminates.
3- other side is a momentary swith you need to hold down to make the combiner activate. designed for jumping banks to get engine started or with some rigs to start the gen set in an emergency.

the light is a bit confusing because the switch can be in the center-off position and a relay down stream that sees the engine running is combining the banks and powering the light also. that relay drops when you park so the only way to charge when parked is to manually throw the switch to the one side that holds


If one bank has a muffed battery combing will drop the good bank.


here is a muff-up many people make. they fail to update engine batteries and combine them all the time and rely on the momentary switch when starting. the combination of both banks when parked with a muffed battery in one bank renders smart chargers to limit the profile it sends to all batteries. it also muffs the avaliable use and solar recharge. since chassis/start and house/coach are often different types the profile of charge and use are different and these intellitec controllers help to overcome those issues.

one other muff up is with the folks who use a standalone trolling motor charger to charge the starting battery bank. when the banks are combined and the stand alone charger is hot. it now is tasked with pumping all 12 batteries.
This switch always confuses me
One time I had the coach plugged in and the switch set to the center position light off and the engine would not start. So now I leave the switch on in the left position with the light on all the time .

So is it you should always have that switch on when on shore power unless you are boon-docking then it should be in the center position?
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Alan Fink & Sally Carlson-Fink
Waupun, Wisconsin
2000 LX ME "Angry Bird"
1989 WB 2017-2019 Sold
2018 Ford F150 4x4
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  #9  
Old 01-31-2020
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isp2952 isp2952 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Al View Post
This switch always confuses me
One time I had the coach plugged in and the switch set to the center position light off and the engine would not start. So now I leave the switch on in the left position with the light on all the time .

So is it you should always have that switch on when on shore power unless you are boon-docking then it should be in the center position?
Al, As I understand it, the purpose for this switch is to essentially keep you from draining your start and generator batteries when boondocking. So I leave mine all the way to the left so all bats get charged and don't move it to the middle until I boondock. Even then I have forgotten but I also have an auto generator start that is set to go off when bats hit 12v so I guess I don't really care if I forget.
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  #10  
Old 01-31-2020
Big Al Big Al is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isp2952 View Post
Al, As I understand it, the purpose for this switch is to essentially keep you from draining your start and generator batteries when boondocking. So I leave mine all the way to the left so all bats get charged and don't move it to the middle until I boondock. Even then I have forgotten but I also have an auto generator start that is set to go off when bats hit 12v so I guess I don't really care if I forget.
Jim

Thanks for helping me understand that switch.
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