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FC (Forward Control Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your FC model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.......List your FC Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 02-24-2013
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Default Toilet Floor Seal: Aqua Magic

Yet ANOTHER question:
As I have addressed before, I have a water leak under the bus. Have eliminated everything but the toilet.
The toilet seems to be holding water BUT there is a soft spot in the floor in front of it...with some water (ugh....). So I have to ASSUME that I have seal leak.
It is an Aqua Magic toilet. Going to replace the seal in the next few weeks and, unfortunately..the wood in front of it..and the vinyl flooring.
What is a good source for the seal and how difficult is the toilet to remove/replace? I looked on the forum but didn't see it covered...at least it didn't show up.
The saga continues.....
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Old 02-24-2013
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I replaced my subfloor a couple of years ago. The wood dry rots do to water infiltration from the hole in the steel floor that the toilet drain passes through. Not too bad of a job. Toilet seals shouldn't be much of an issue.
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Old 02-24-2013
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toilets are held down by either 2 or 4 bolts, nuts, and washers. The supply line is a finger tight fitting. There is probably no separate water cut off for your toilet, unless someone added it. Seals are easy to find. Don't forget, turn off the water, open a couple of faucets before you disconnect water line. This will be the low water drain for your fresh water- you could get a small amount of water out of the supply line.
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Old 02-24-2013
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Thanks AGAIN guys.
Went in and checked and found the two bolts that hold it down.
I do have a water shutoff valve..so that should take care of that problem.
While I'm at it I'm going to remove the subfloor in the bathroom and redo the floor. This might be one of the easiest projects I have tackled so far.
All I can figure out is when I fixed the other leaks (and now have good water pressure at the bathroom sink & shower, it caused the seal to go...or ???
Anyway, thanks again.
<D>
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Old 02-24-2013
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Go to Harbor freight and buy one of their multipurpose tools. This will enable you to cut along the walls. The toilet, while secured to the floor is also secured to the black tank with the drain pipe. You have a layer of steel under the plywood/vinyl. I suspect your vinyl has some discoloration. This job, will take some time.
Try this Ernie "experiment"- take a small flat blade screwdriver and see if you can penetrate the vinyl into the plywood without much difficulty. If it is easy- the wood is toast- if not- the plywood is ok
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Old 02-24-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ernest Ekberg View Post
Go to Harbor freight and buy one of their multipurpose tools. This will enable you to cut along the walls. The toilet, while secured to the floor is also secured to the black tank with the drain pipe. You have a layer of steel under the plywood/vinyl. I suspect your vinyl has some discoloration. This job, will take some time.
Try this Ernie "experiment"- take a small flat blade screwdriver and see if you can penetrate the vinyl into the plywood without much difficulty. If it is easy- the wood is toast- if not- the plywood is ok
Ernie:
The spot in front of the toilet is definitely trashed. Will do the "Ernie Experiment" around the soft spot and area around the toilet. If just the spot, how difficult?
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Old 02-24-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EagleOne View Post
Ernie:
The spot in front of the toilet is definitely trashed. Will do the "Ernie Experiment" around the soft spot and area around the toilet. If just the spot, how difficult?
Ernie:
Only 1/4 of one vinyl square is soft (with the hole/soft space). The remainder of the floor will not let my small knife penetrate.
<D>
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Old 02-24-2013
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since its small, take up the vinyl and let the area breathe and dry before you proceed. after that we can discuss how to fix it.
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Old 02-24-2013
Wsufans Wsufans is offline
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My floor was 5/8" ply which is OK but can be hard to find. Only settle for exterior grade then seal it with paint or ???? so it is less likely to soak up moisture in the future.

Consider some foil face bitumen material that they use for window and door flashing around the hole for the flange again to seal it against moisture intrusion. It is a bear to work with for a round hole like that but in my book anything you can do to keep the water out of the plywood subfloor is a good thing.

Careful with the tool mentioned as you can also cut the metal floor and make the cut as straight as possible so the new piece fits well. Seal the joint too. Seal any bare metal you come across and remove all rust. Use a rust neutralizer before you paint or it will just come back.
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Old 02-24-2013
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Good to go.
Will pick up a new box cutter tomorrow.
Thanks Crew
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