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FC (Forward Control Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your FC model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.......List your FC Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 04-05-2008
stanley7140 stanley7140 is offline
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Default 88FC swing radiator???

How do I tell if my 88FC has a swing radiator and how does it work? I've had the dog house off and had a good look at the engine from inside the bus. On the LH (DS) front of the engine there is plumbing that goes from what appears to be the thermostat housing into the top of the radiator. There doesn't appear to be enough flexability in that connection to allow any movement.

My Horton leaks and I'm going to need to get in there.
Thanks
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  #2  
Old 04-05-2008
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iamflagman iamflagman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanley7140 View Post
How do I tell if my 88FC has a swing radiator and how does it work? I've had the dog house off and had a good look at the engine from inside the bus. On the LH (DS) front of the engine there is plumbing that goes from what appears to be the thermostat housing into the top of the radiator. There doesn't appear to be enough flexability in that connection to allow any movement.

My Horton leaks and I'm going to need to get in there.
Thanks

There are a variety of swing radiators out there on different years of FC model 'Birds, some swing to the left and some to the right. On your model 'Bird I believe that you have more to remove than I have on mine, but the access is somewhat similar once the radiator is swung open.

You can go to my web site A DESCRIPTIVE PHOTO WEB SITE, OWNED AND EDITED BY JOHN FINN, FOR 'BIRD OWNERS and see an animated photo sequence of mine in operation, it is part of the series of descriptive photos about my swing radiator modification, starting at http://www.pbase.com/iamflagman/image/36136424 just click on NEXT at the right of each photo to see the next one and when you get to it be sure to give the animated photo sequence time to load.

The easiest way to see if you have a swing radiator is to look for the hinges on the bottom of the bumper that allow the bumper to swing down, at least that is the way I have found most of them on the earlier model FC's, I'm not sure about the 88 though. Hopefully someone else will jump in here that has a later model FC than mine.
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  #3  
Old 04-05-2008
David Thompson
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Dave, you do have a swing radiator, as per say. It will take you about two hours to get at the fan. remove the grill, bumper, metal plate in front of the aftercooler, aftercooler-start by taking the hoses off in the engine comparment, you will have to do this to pull the a-cooler out far enought to disconect the hoses at the a-cooler., remove the left and right turn signals to get at the bolts on the radiator, drain the radiator, remove the radiator, remove the fan shoud, if you have any questions call me at 715 458 2216 or call Bill Page at 248 390 1806, Bill has 88fc and I have 89fc good luck David T
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Old 04-05-2008
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Dave, I agree with David! Call David or Bill, I've been lucky so far and have not had to crack mine open. I think I'd rather have a good tow plan and have it transported to the shop, two hours removing stuff on the side of the busy interstate is no fun, been there done that, I vote for a transport. By the way you know it is much better to haul your bus then tow, most wrecker services don't want the liability with the ZF trannie & the risk of breaking the rear shaft. The smart way to get your bus to a shop is on the top of a Landall Transport.
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Old 04-05-2008
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Dave: You have to trust us...you do have a swing radiator.

1. Remove grill by removing 4 vertical columns of hex head screws (I use my cordless drill for this task); leave the center column of hex head screws in place. Put the grill away in a safe place to avoid damage and besides you want to get it out of the way.

2. Remove the 4 face bolts in the chrome bumper...my want a helper since the bumper is somewhat heavy don't get hurt; swing the bumper downward.

3. I prefer to remove the upper right DS) radiator hose using a gear wrench.

4. Unbolt that steel plate covering the After Cooler.

5. Remove four 4" constant pressure hose clamps on the after cooler using a 7/16" gear wrench or 1/4" drive ratchet & socket. I normally do not remove the after cooler tubes...just use care when removing & reinstalling the 4" silicone hoses...your choice.

6. Remove the four cap screws holding the fan shroud.

7. Remove turn signals & brackets.

8. Remove the wire from the low-water sensor on back side of radiator top tank (reach from inside dog house).

9. Shut off the the 2 globe valves or gate valves on drivers side of coach and then drain 10-12 gallons of coolant. No point in draining the chassis heater loop.

10. Radiator & A-cooler can be swung as an assembly or remove A cooler and swing radiator only. Watch that botton radiator hose for binding and watch the radiator drain which can be damaged when swinging.

11. If radiator has not been cleaned recently, now may be a good time to send radiator to a shop for inspection & cleaning...just a thought and you will have much more room to work on the Horton.

Please call me if you need clarification or have questions. 573.465.0527 cell or 573.341.2197 home.
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Old 04-05-2008
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Dave: The photo link below shows the low-coolant wire that may need to be removed...also you can see how my A-cooler tubes are routed & clamped.

http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/gro...os/browse/9657

These late model FC are not that difficult to access...be patient.
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Rolla, MO 65401
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Old 04-05-2008
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I will say one thing about this forum: There appears to be more of us Silver Edition owners lurking here than anywhere else. If you rad and hoses appear to be old or original I would suggest this is the right time to remove everything. If the rad has never been opened up it is a dirty job. Most of what the others have said is right on. I use a 7/16 gear wrench and a special nut driver that is a flex and has a 7/16 end. That along with a 1/4 drive ratchet will allow you to access the rad hose clamps. I undo my air to air cooler hoses at the cooler. To reinstall I simply push the cooler onto the hoses and I have the clamps turned so they are accesable. I replaced all the hoses, clamps and belts as well as the thermostat. The upper rad hose will have to be undone to swing the rad open. To easily do all of the above it is best to remove the rad. I also replaced every bolt, nut and washers. This way if I ever have to open it up the job will be easier. When reinstalling the allen headed grill bolts I used Nevr-sieze. I made a tool from an old allen wrench that I chuck in my battery drill. I also took some 1/4 inch stove bolts and cut off the heads. These studs serve as a guide when reinstalling the grill.

Maybe we should start a chapter for 87 to 89 FC's!!!!!!
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2008
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giderich giderich is offline
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Bruce: I wish to nominate you for 'president' of the '87-'89 FC Chapter.
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1999 43 LXI Single Slide Body # F124510
2005 JEEP Liberty Limited CRD (diesel Toad)
SOLD 89 FC in 2012; SOLD 88 WB in 2016
Rolla, MO 65401
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  #9  
Old 04-06-2008
stanley7140 stanley7140 is offline
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Thanks, you guys are great. Sounds like this is not matter of swinging the radiator out and sneaking a new fan drive in. My cooling system is intact, but it all looks old to me. I pulled up 395 from LA to Reno and lost about 2 litters of coolant. I suspect it wouldn't have faired so well if it had been 104 out instead of 40. I guess I'll figure on pulling it down, replacing the hoses, and checking the radiator out.

I think its good enought to take a couple of short trips first (new bird, etching to travel). I need to let my field dry out so I can get it up to the shop anyway.

Do you use silicon hoses? What kind of coolant do you use? Shoudl I reuse the coolant? How do you keep the coolant is shape - additives?

Thanks again - great pics.
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  #10  
Old 04-06-2008
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Dave: The cooling system needs to be in top notch shape...coolant test strips available at heavy truck shops or parts stores. The hoses on the air to air cooler are silicone...also the water hose from water pump to the top of radiator (this silicon hose has a protection sleeve zip tied to it). When replacing hoses try to go with Gates heavy duty if possible. Just remember to do it right the first time and save labor by making a list of items you want to fix and avoid pulling/swinging the radiator multiple times.

Lots of opinions on coolant ...make sure to use "low silicate" formula used in heavy diesels...your Cat book gives the specification. Coolant can be reused but look at your maintenance history and use judgement. How clean is the coolant and does color look bright? If unsure what has been used by PO, this may be a good time to replace the coolant.

Coolant is kept in shape by Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCA). Fleet Charge brand available at TSC stores is fully formulated and is already charged with SCAs. Don't overlook your local Cat dealer for coolant and many items on the 3208. You can review the archives and see that there is no one answer to your questions...lots to think about and these Wanderlodge Owners Group members can guide along.

Watch those drive belts...all nine of them (four sets of 2 and a one for the AC).

If installing new belts, be sure to tighten to specs and allow to run for 30 minutes or so and then readjust to specs.

On your Horton Fan, your leak may simply be the supply line connections on the nylon supply line. Check it out prior to removal of the clutch...using 'shop air' to air up the coach if necessary (hook air line to schreader valve on the wet tank).
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2005 JEEP Liberty Limited CRD (diesel Toad)
SOLD 89 FC in 2012; SOLD 88 WB in 2016
Rolla, MO 65401
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