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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #21  
Old 11-11-2017
Windlovr Windlovr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b1gsur View Post
Sorry I missed the error.

The Hikari kit is the H1 bulb for the headlights.

https://www.amazon.com/HIKARI-Headli...adlight+H1+kit.

Fits exactly where the H1 halogen bulb was.

Hopefully, Amazon will except a return for the wrong kit.
Amazon will take them back. Just ordered the correct ones, but will take some weeks to get here. Thanks for the heads up. So wanting to get better lights. Current ones kinda suck.
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  #22  
Old 11-11-2017
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Sorry about that guys - If you look at pic 2 in post #13 above, you can see what Dan used and it clearly says H1. That & only two kits required for all four headlights. You just can’t get good help these days!

Dan - Please confirm this is correct. Also, do the same H1 bulbs work on both sets of lights? Have you swapped all four out?
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Last edited by NoGas; 11-11-2017 at 06:00 PM.
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  #23  
Old 11-11-2017
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I can confirm that Dan swapped out all four - at Glacier, post Casper rally, we happened to wind up parked next to each other and both turned on our headlights at night so he could show me the difference.

I do almost no nighttime travel, but I've been thinking about doing this anyway for safety. One question I don't see asked/answered: What about the DRL? Does it work with these? Does it need to be disconnected? I assume without testing, but by observation, that the DRL puts a lower voltage through the low beams.
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  #24  
Old 11-11-2017
b1gsur b1gsur is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonB View Post
I can confirm that Dan swapped out all four - at Glacier, post Casper rally, we happened to wind up parked next to each other and both turned on our headlights at night so he could show me the difference.

I do almost no nighttime travel, but I've been thinking about doing this anyway for safety. One question I don't see asked/answered: What about the DRL? Does it work with these? Does it need to be disconnected? I assume without testing, but by observation, that the DRL puts a lower voltage through the low beams.

No issue with LED. DRL works fine.

Now looking for replacement of fog lights. Anyone find an multi LED replacement?
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  #25  
Old 11-12-2017
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Thanks, Dan. Some of the Amazon comments say that when they are used for DRL that they flicker, and that it shortens the life. Others say they don't flicker. Some speculation that the difference is in the voltage used for DRL - too low it flickers, but if it is high enough it is fine.
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  #26  
Old 11-12-2017
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Just a piece of trivia: Hikari means "Light" in Japanese, but this company is Chinese, which does not apparently have a meaning for the word.

I've been a reseller of products from the Japanese Hikari company (maker of fish food, particularly for Koi) for more than 40 years, but I had never looked to see what the name means.
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Prior: 1990 WB40 "Blue Thunder"
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  #27  
Old 11-17-2017
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Finished both H1 installs on left headlight. After watching at Casper, it was a simple R&R. Used 3M heat shrink on the connections, then coiled them and the Hikari connector in the rubber projector cover, and finally zip tied that to the housing keeping the fans on the back of the lamps clear. Tested the hi/low and each works, though I need to find those relays so I can do the jumper thing and make both lamps work at the same time on Hi. Can really tell a difference in these bulbs! Unfortunately, discovered the plastic guide for my adjustment screw on right lower beam is missing and that allowed the whole housing to move up and down. Ordered a new Hella adjustment screw with the guide and am now waiting for that. In the meantime, will address a rock bullseye and the same pealing clearcoat issues everyone else has with the black covers. But before that, I’d like to do the drill & bump out of the projectors like Doc’s. Driving at night should be much less challenging once this project is done!
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  #28  
Old 11-17-2017
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Good pics Van, the lights will be my next mod, still not sure I want to cut holes in the lexan covers. I used gorilla tape to pull most of the clearcoat off, then fine sandpaper and polish to restore the finish.
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  #29  
Old 11-17-2017
b1gsur b1gsur is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoGas View Post
Finished both H1 installs on left headlight. After watching at Casper, it was a simple R&R. Used 3M heat shrink on the connections, then coiled them and the Hikari connector in the rubber projector cover, and finally zip tied that to the housing keeping the fans on the back of the lamps clear. Tested the hi/low and each works, though I need to find those relays so I can do the jumper thing and make both lamps work at the same time on Hi. Can really tell a difference in these bulbs! Unfortunately, discovered the plastic guide for my adjustment screw on right lower beam is missing and that allowed the whole housing to move up and down. Ordered a new Hella adjustment screw with the guide and am now waiting for that. In the meantime, will address a rock bullseye and the same pealing clearcoat issues everyone else has with the black covers. But before that, I’d like to do the drill & bump out of the projectors like Doc’s. Driving at night should be much less challenging once this project is done!

Hope you are able to find the connections to be able to have both on at once. That should really improve night driving on the open road.

Please share that.
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  #30  
Old 11-17-2017
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Originally Posted by b1gsur View Post
Hope you are able to find the connections to be able to have both on at once. That should really improve night driving on the open road.

Please share that.
Shouldn't be difficult, the only thing I don't know for sure is if the headlights are switched power, or switched ground. Assuming switched positive you would get a standard Bosch automotive relay; attach the hot wire from the high beam to both pins 30 and 85. Pin 86 to ground. Pin 87 to the hot wire on the low beams.

If instead it is switched ground (I doubt it, but possible) it would be ground wire from the high beam to pins 30 and 85, hot wire from either lamp to pin 86, and pin 87 to ground wire on low beam.

An alternative would be to use a high-power diode, connected between the hot wires if they are switched, or the ground wires if they are switched. Since we are talking 2+ amps a 10A Schottky diode would be appropriate. You would lose typically 0.55V to the low beam, which shouldn't matter.
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