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  #1  
Old 07-06-2013
Rick Davis Rick Davis is offline
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Default Engine bedroom access

I am trying to remove the bedroom access panel to the engine in this PT. I have removed the vanity top between the twin beds, the plywood cover with its insulation (asbestos?), as well as the bookoo (that's a technical term) of screws around the steel access panel's edges. But it is still stuck tight; real tight. In the two pics you may see there are four bolts toward the middle of the panel. What are these for? Could it be there are actually two panels sandwiched together with these bolts; one from below and one from above in the bedroom? Hopefully the pics are clear enough to show the four bolts.
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Rick & Marilyn Davis
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1997 WB43 Mid-door-Sold
1986 PT36 6V92 "Golden Memories"-Sold
1993 WB40 "freeNeasy"-Sold
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  #2  
Old 07-07-2013
ejallison1 ejallison1 is offline
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Don't remove the 4 bolts in the center. Once all screws around the perimeter of the hatch are removed you will need a wide pry bar or big straight edge screw driver to gently pry up arond the edges. On mine there was some very sticky sealant around the perimeter and I think that is what is holding you up. A box knife can help cut through the sealant once you have the hatch pried up a little. If you have a paint heat gun it may help loosen the sealant.
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  #3  
Old 07-07-2013
bubblerboy64 bubblerboy64 is offline
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Had the exact same problem. It's glued down with some really really good stuff. It took me hours to pry that cover off. I don't know if heat will help because the heat from the engine would be pretty much up there plus the heat really needs to be coming from the other side. I broke a wood handle on a claw hammer prying on mine (had to get it off to get to the alternator)

What I would suggest is to pry up on the thing see if you can put a nail or something under the edge to hold it move over an inch or so and do the same working around the edge and wedging something under as you work.

I feel your pain believe me. Typical BB deal. Can't say they were not built well but some times I'd like to strangle the guy that did some of this stuff. I understand you want to seal the thing but come on the door was put there for a reason if you are going to make it that darned tight just put a piece of plywood over it and let the mechanic cut his hole as needed. Big screw drivers pry bars and wedges. Work a little carefully because if you bend the door it's not easy to fix that' IT WILL COME OFF. I was convinced mine was screwed down from the other side.
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Old 07-07-2013
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KCSS KCSS is offline
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I agree with the other replies. Been there - done that. It's stuck down with some good unkumpykky
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Old 07-07-2013
Rick Davis Rick Davis is offline
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Thanks guys. Your timing is perfect. I was just about to go back out to the Bird Barn and remove the bolts. Marilyn was getting ready to go with me to hold the "wrench on a stick" I had just made up to reach in and hold my nuts underneath. Thing is, that access plate has obviously been removed before, and looks to have been removed multiple times. The PO's PO said he had changed the compressor hoses and alt belts before. I see clear silicone oozing out around the perimeter, but I couldn't imagine they would have resealed the sucker that tight. Thanks again, and as always thanks to WOG!
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1997 WB43 Mid-door-Sold
1986 PT36 6V92 "Golden Memories"-Sold
1993 WB40 "freeNeasy"-Sold
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Old 07-07-2013
bubblerboy64 bubblerboy64 is offline
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I said some bad words doing that job believe me. My bus had the alternator replaced at least once and I would have thought you would have to access thru that hole but I believe I was the first to remove that door. Because any one other then BB would not have used construction adhesive or what ever the heck it was that had it sealed up. And the door definitely has some major jimmy marks on it after my efforts. So???? I don't know but I believe you could put a bomb off under that door and it would blow the engine out the bottom of the bus before that stinking door would let go. Having said that the first alternator was replace by BB I believe by the records and those guys probably knew what they were up against. Perhaps they had a skinny long armed worked who was able to cruel back over the engine and do the alternator without going thru the door. I don't know. May the force be with you.
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Old 07-07-2013
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curtsprenger curtsprenger is offline
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I know I've posted this before...but not finding it today. Using 1" wide, 1/16" flat stock, I made a right angle, 6" x 1". Put a taper on the 1" edges...and hammered the 1" edge under the access lid edges. Took all of 5 minutes to cut the sealant.
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  #8  
Old 07-07-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtsprenger View Post
I know I've posted this before...but not finding it today. Using 1" wide, 1/16" flat stock, I made a right angle, 6" x 1". Put a taper on the 1" edges...and hammered the 1" edge under the access lid edges. Took all of 5 minutes to cut the sealant.
Hi Curt,

I think this is the post with the picture that you were looking for?

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/showpost.php?p=51420&postcount=9

Here are a couple of Hatch Removal threads that might help:

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6904

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5888
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  #9  
Old 07-07-2013
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curtsprenger curtsprenger is offline
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John, you are a good detective.
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1974 FC31 534 gas engine, air brakes (sold)
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  #10  
Old 07-07-2013
Rick Davis Rick Davis is offline
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Thanks Curt, but I just got back from the Bird Barn and found that the four bolts had to be removed after all. Once out, the upper access plate came out easily since it had been removed previously. I found the PO's PO had sandwiched together additional layers of insulation board with an additional metal plate installed from the engine side. And, it had been installed AFTER the insulation board, meaning even after removing the underside and upper plate I had to cut through the various added insulation. So all in all from the bedroom it had; 1)the plywood cover, 2) the metal Blue Bird access plate with it's 1/4" asbestos? insulation, 3) 1" of aluminum backed insulation board glued to that, 4) 1" of foam insulation that I had to cut through, 5) two layers of 1" aluminum backed insulation board that I had to cut through, then 6) the metal plate on the engine side bolted to the upper metal plate. Let's just say there was no heat coming up into the bedroom from that puppy. The first pic shows the upper plate removed and the added insulation layers, and the second shows the lower plate with the cutout layers of insulation. So that's over, and now the real work begins.
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1997 WB43 Mid-door-Sold
1986 PT36 6V92 "Golden Memories"-Sold
1993 WB40 "freeNeasy"-Sold
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