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M380 (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your M380 model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it.....list your M380 Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 07-11-2014
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Default Questions re: removing Hurricane

Now that I have both feet under me I've started to tackle some lingering projects. One is to remove the Hurricane completely to fully service it - replace all the hoses, motor brushes, etc.

All of the lines going to it are long enough to have slack, so rather than trying to force them off their nipples I'm simply cutting them. Will remove the ends after the unit is out. My problem currently is with the hoses going to the engine for that heating loop. I stuck a blade in and then bent it a little to see if it would leak. It does, big time. Shoots coolant a couple of feet. Fortunately it appears self-sealing.

Back at the engine there are two ball valves on the Drivers side for lines going forward. I closed those and it made no difference.

For those who have been there and done that - Randy, Cliff, Doc & Linda at least come to mind - what did you do?
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Old 07-11-2014
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Default Pinch-Off pliers

Don, I use radiator hose Pinch-Off pliers available at many tool stores.

http://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-Rad.../dp/B006ZB98HO

http://www.harborfreight.com/radiato...ers-99704.html

These pliers (clamps) are available in several sizes. Be careful and do not use them on reinforced hoses.

And a hose pick comes in handy too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-...ick-96572.html
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Last edited by giderich; 07-11-2014 at 07:24 PM. Reason: added link
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Old 07-11-2014
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Default




Don got the same problem at the moment with the new Oasis install.
Dick has the answer, it's how I did it last time with the Aquahot, should work like that again. Simple easy it works well


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Old 07-11-2014
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we used vise grips to pinch off the lines.
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Old 07-11-2014
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I was thinking about using vice-grips with a couple of metal bars, but a cheap dedicated tool that does the same thing sounds less-likely to cause me trouble. I will likely have to keep them closed off for several days as I gather parts for replacement. Happily there are valves on the house heating lines.
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Prior: 1990 WB40 "Blue Thunder"
My location: www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
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Old 07-11-2014
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Don, o'reilly auto parts normally keeps the special hose pincer offer pliers. I bought two sets when I pulled my hurricane. My is an 1999 model so is probably different from your model.

One note. After rebuilding and replacing most of the parts I also changed the boiler fluid. I learned that the small circulation pumps on the hurricane are very low flow and can not push out any air the gets trapped in the system.

A call to the factory confirmed this and they advised to plumb in a cheap Sur-Flo pump which is strong enought to push the air out. This is where you must have two set of the pliers so when you remove the temporary pump that no air gets again. I tried it with vise grips and after many attempts just bought two of the special pliers. Can' t remember what they cost, but it seemed high, but necessary.
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Old 07-11-2014
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I changed out the boiler fluid last year. Blue Bird plumbed the system for that operation, so no clamps are needed. See the picture below. Run a hose from the right valve to a bucket of fluid; run from the bucket to a pump to the left side; open the yellow valves and close the red one and start circulating. When all air is purged, open the red and close the yellows.

There are two return lines from different loops, and in the picture only one has a valve - I installed a valve on the other line as well, because it turned out they put the valve on the line that already had the most resistance!

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Prior: 2004 M380 Double Slide
Prior: 1990 WB40 "Blue Thunder"
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Old 07-12-2014
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I have the Hurricane out, sitting on a scaffold, but it is still under the door, and I want to get it completely out. The problem? The control cable. Can't believe there is no connector in it! Looks like it would be a ***** to detach it at either end. My thought is to simply cut it, then put a 15-pin molex connector on each end for future detachment. I'm interested, though, in what others have done?
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Current: No RV at this time
2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Prior: 2004 M380 Double Slide
Prior: 1990 WB40 "Blue Thunder"
My location: www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
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Old 07-12-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonB View Post
I have the Hurricane out, sitting on a scaffold, but it is still under the door, and I want to get it completely out. The problem? The control cable. Can't believe there is no connector in it! Looks like it would be a ***** to detach it at either end. My thought is to simply cut it, then put a 15-pin molex connector on each end for future detachment. I'm interested, though, in what others have done?
we cut the wires.
I think you have the right idea,add a molex connector.
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Old 07-12-2014
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Some pictures. In the top one you can see the air pump just hanging. It was originally mounted with three rubber mounts to the roof of that compartment, but over time the mounts ripped.

In the middle one at the top the hose with a spring around it was a field repair last fall (later than the one at Pine Mountain). I will replace with a proper 90-degree molded hose this time.

The bottom one shows a thermostat just hanging in a mount off the end of the boiler. This does not show in the ITR manual or pictures, so may be a BB addition. I assume the mount is supposed to spring-load the t-stat against the boiler. The t-stat is wired inline with the ground cable to the diesel fuel pump, so presumably an overheat shutdown of the flame.





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Don Bradner
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Prior: 2004 M380 Double Slide
Prior: 1990 WB40 "Blue Thunder"
My location: www.bbirdmaps.com/user2.cfm?user=1
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