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LX and LXI (Unique Issues) If you have a unique issue with your LX or LXI model coach and it can't be answered in one of the other forums here, then this is where you can list it, WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THOSE ISSUES INVOLVED WITH ANY LAWSUIT.....list your LX and LXI Parts here too.

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  #1  
Old 02-02-2018
Joatha Joatha is offline
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Default Yet another Samsung replacement thread

Back in November, my Dometic bit the dust so its time to start replacing it with a Samsung. I'm just now starting the project and I have questions so I figured it was best to start a new thread and we'll go from there as I progress. I expect it will take a few weeks to get it all done as I haven't even bought the new refrigerator yet nor done a single thing other than look at removing the old refrigerator.

First item for me is to remove or cap the gas line.

I looked for a valve for the gas in the vicinity of the refrigerator and didn't see one. So, I guess I'll be capping off the line. It looks like there are 2 places I could cap them - one is right there in the area behind the refrigerator. Second opportunity is to do it in the compartment below. I'm planning to cap it in the compartment unless someone has a better suggestion.

Also, it is my assumption that I will want to cut off the gas at the switch in the kitchen as well as the master switch over at the fuel fill area. Are there any other places I will need to check?

Next up, it removing power to the unit. 120V will be easy - just unplug it. I still plan to remove shore power just in case. For 12V, I am just going to cut off the battery via my disconnect switch. Anything wrong with that plan?

After that, I'll begin removal. I'm planning to work on this a bit tomorrow and then remove it from the cabinet on Sunday when its supposed to rain. I have a tranny jack I will use to help get it out of the cabinet.

Any other pointers would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 02-02-2018
Jim Brookshire Jim Brookshire is offline
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Unplugging the AC will work, but remember if you need to move the receptacle, it is also powered by the inverter. There should be a manual valve on the propane tank. Just close it and clear the line pressure by lightning a burner on the stove. The cut and cap the line in the cabinet. Getting the old unit out without scratching something is probably the biggest issue. I am sure most of installing the new Samsung has already been covered. Good luck, the biggest risk is going to be your wife if you ever suggest going back!
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  #3  
Old 02-02-2018
Joatha Joatha is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Brookshire View Post
Unplugging the AC will work, but remember if you need to move the receptacle, it is also powered by the inverter. There should be a manual valve on the propane tank. Just close it and clear the line pressure by lightning a burner on the stove. The cut and cap the line in the cabinet. Getting the old unit out without scratching something is probably the biggest issue. I am sure most of installing the new Samsung has already been covered. Good luck, the biggest risk is going to be your wife if you ever suggest going back!
Thanks! I should be OK on the inverter since I plan to shut it off AND use my battery disconnect. My outlet is at the very very back. I am not expecting I'll have to move it at this point but we'll see how that goes.

I will also run the burner to clear the line as well.
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  #4  
Old 02-02-2018
mahansm mahansm is offline
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For shutting off the gas, the switch by the fill port and the switch on the front of the sink are in series with each other. Turning one off is sufficient. Also, the solenoid takes power from the LPG detector to open. With the battery off the solenoid will be closed and the gas turned off.
If your bus is laid out like mine, the tank is behind the partition in the 2nd compartment back behind the steer axle on the street side. A mere 10 Philips screws and you can turn off the manual valve.
You are correct that there will be gas left in the line after the valve is closed; running a stove burner will release the pressure.
I had a Samsung in my bus when I bought it and have been very happy with the unit.
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  #5  
Old 02-03-2018
Joatha Joatha is offline
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So today I made a bit more progress.

First, I got the gas off and removed the gas connection from the Dometic. I also disconnected the gas back to the bay below the refrigerator. There was a union in that bay and that's where I will end up capping it. I had 2 caps ready to go but I am not feeling real confident that the size is right so I'm going to check that again.

I also removed the 12V connection. I capped those for now with some wire nuts and electrical tape. When I get the fridge all out then I'll cap them properly. Next, I noticed that the fridge was connected to a drain pipe. So, I got that disconnected.

I then went to work on the front of the refrigerator to get it loose. I removed the 4 screws on the control panel first. Them I went to work on getting the doors loose. I put a wrench on the lock nut below the hinge and then unscrewed the hinge bolt. Once that was gone the door comes out easily.

Took care of the 4 screws holding the unit in on top and bottom. The bottom screws were pretty rusty but came out easily. I also took out the hinge level bolt on the bottom and was able to pop loose the cover for the bottom of the fridge.

Next, used a small pry bar to break the fridge loose from the bottom - it appear to have a minor amount of adhesive or just years of sitting there had it locked in. I lifted and separated it from the frame it was now moving. Once I got it free I was able to start moving the fridge out. I got it out about 2" and I stopped there in terms of removal.

Next up it was measurement time. The wife and I had gone over to Best Buy for some other things and I took the opportunity to go look at an RF18 in person and measure it. It is 69.88" tall and without the doors it is is 24.5-25" deep. I am going to head to Home Depot as well with the wife. We need to decide between stainless and platinum.

I measured the front door opening on my LX and it was 27". However, I am going to have to removed the brass handle inside the door as well as the front chair to get it in (both expected). There is also some sort of trim that sticks out in the door as well and I'm going to remove that as well. So, it does appear that it will fit (as expected).

All in all, things are on track!

Tomorrow, I'm going to put down some brown paper or cardboard to protect the floors and do some things to get things ready for removing the old and bringing in the new.

Last, I started another thread on this but if anyone needs parts for a Dometic, let me know. I included pics of the removed doors in case anyone is interested - they match my cabinets and others might like that color if they were so inclined.
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  #6  
Old 02-03-2018
Jim Brookshire Jim Brookshire is offline
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As you have noticed, the door wood matches your interior. I have used it to make a matching shelf and other items for my LXi. Might be worth saving.
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  #7  
Old 02-03-2018
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I could use the hinges off the right hand door.
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Old 02-03-2018
Bruce Bruce is offline
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If you want to do the line according to code it should be removed and capped off outside the coach. Neater as well. BTW: I bet there are way over a 100 coaches with the Samsung. Many mfrs. use it from the factory.
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  #9  
Old 02-03-2018
Joatha Joatha is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by birds_first View Post
I could use the hinges off the right hand door.
Top and bottom? Just send me an email at reck@gojackets.com with your address and I'll pop them in an envelope and send them your way. I still have to remove the fridge a bit more before I can remove the hinges, but I will be glad to send them to you.
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Old 02-03-2018
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Thanks, I can use both if I may. The PO must have over stuffed it.
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